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WorldSBK Reports: Razgatlioglu Crowned World Champion In Indonesia

By
PB
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Four rookies plan to make their mark on the Championship while the #1 plate has a new home for 2022.
Four rookies plan to make their mark on the Championship while the #1 plate has a new home for 2022.

Turkey’s star rider, Toprak Razgatlioglu (Pata Yamaha with Brixx WorldSBK Team) has claimed the MOTUL FIM Superbike World Championship after a dramatic race one at the Pertamina Mandalika International Street Circuit on the island of Lombok in Indonesia.

Jonathan Rea (Kawasaki Racing Team WorldSBK) took the race victory, but Razgatlioglu’s second place was enough for him to clinch the championship and become the first ever Turkish rider to win the WorldSBK title. At 25 years, he becomes the third youngest rider to win the championship in its 33 year history and the first rider to dethrone six-time WorldSBK Champion, Northern Ireland’s Jonathan Rea.  Toprak is the protégé of former WorldSSP champion, Turkey’s Kenan Sofuoglu.

His second place gave him a 25-point advantage over Rea with one race to run – but his title victory was secure on a countback of most wins for the season.   His 2021 journey with Yamaha has seen him amass 13 wins, 29 podiums and 3 pole positions to clinch the season title for 2021.

Despite some rain falling prior to the start of race one, which was delayed and shortened to 20 laps from the original 21, all riders started on slick tyres. Polesitter, Razgatlioglu lost ground as the lights went out but battled his way back to lead the race at the start of lap three after overtaking Jonathan Rea (Kawasaki Racing Team WorldSBK) into the right-hander of turn one. Behind, Axel Bassani (Motocorsa Racing) was making his way through the field to briefly lead the race after passing Rea on lap four at turn 12 and then Razgatlioglu on lap five at turn ten.

At the end of lap five, Rea forced his way through on Bassani on the exit of turn 16 before Razgatlioglu followed through at turn one at the start of lap six, before Rea and Razgatlioglu exchanged first place throughout lap six. Rea eventually re-claimed the lead and started lapping around one tenth quicker than his title rival, who remained in second place. On lap nine, Razgatlioglu took the lead with a move on Rea into turn ten. Lap ten featured yet another change for the lead as Rea passed Razgatlioglu into turn 16, before Razgatlioglu responded straight away into turn one. On the same lap Scott Redding (Aruba.it Racing – Ducati) claimed second place from Rea with a similar move that Rea made on Razgatlioglu at turn 16.

Turn 16 continued to provide drama as Razgatlioglu ran wide into the long left-hander at the penultimate corner, losing the lead of the race to Redding, and Rea moved into second place with the Turkish star re-joining in third place. Although he lost the two positions, he started chipping away at the gap chasing down the lead two riders. Rea took control of the race on lap 16, before Redding lost ground trying to respond to Rea’s move allowing Razgatlioglu to close the gap. Redding lost more time at turn 16 and, despite defending into turn 17, Razgatlioglu made the title-winning overtake on lap 18 at turn one. Razgatlioglu closed the gap to Rea throughout the final two laps but claimed second place behind Rea to take the 2021 title.

The top three in the Championship are now locked into place; Razgatlioglu in first, Rea in second and Redding in third. It means Razgatlioglu has claimed Yamaha’s first title since the 2009 season, when they won with American Ben Spies, and ended Rea’s run of consecutive titles at six. The Turkish star, at 25 years, one month and five days, becomes the third-youngest champion of all time, behind James Toseland and Troy Corser. Rea’s victory means he has now won at 21 different circuits, a record for wins at different venues in WorldSBK.

Bassani ran in the top three for the majority of the first half of the race and briefly led the race, before he eventually dropped back from the leading three. He eventually finished in fifth place after losing out to Andrea Locatelli (Pata Yamaha with Brixx WorldSBK) in the closing stages of the race, as Locatelli made up ground as track conditions continued to improve.

He had also made a move on Michael van der Mark (BMW Motorrad WorldSBK Team) to move into fifth place and push the Dutch rider down to sixth place; van der Mark showed strong pace again in the difficult conditions as he looked to challenge for a podium, but ultimately fell to sixth place. Locatelli’s fourth place means he moves into fourth in the Championship standings, one point clear of Michael Ruben Rinaldi (Aruba.it Racing – Ducati), while van der Mark could still claim fifth from Rinaldo.

Alvaro Bautista’s penultimate race for Team HRC saw him claim seventh place after withstanding a late charge from Chaz Davies (Team GoEleven), with Davies looking to end his WorldSBK career on a high note. Argentinean rider Leandro Mercado (MIE Racing Honda Team) claimed ninth place after another strong performance, beating Tom Sykes (BMW Motorrad WorldSBK Team) who claimed tenth. Sykes had been running inside the top six in the early stages of the race before dropping back.

Despite a strong start and running in the top positions in the early stages of the race, Garrett Gerloff (GRT Yamaha WorldSBK Team) finished in 11th place; with Bassani in fifth, the battle for Top Independent Rider in 2021 will go down to the final race. Rinaldi finished in 12th place as he lost ground in the race for fourth place in the standings. Isaac Viñales (Orelac Racing VerdNatura) was another who had strong early race pace but dropped back slightly in the closing stages, finishing in 13th. Samuele Cavalieri (Barni Racing Team) claimed 14th place with Kohta Nozane (GRT Yamaha WorldSBK Team) claiming the final points-paying position. 

Toprak Razgatlioglu, Pata Yamaha with Brixx WorldSBK: “First, I want to say thank you to my family and to Kenan Sofuoglu because we are a big family. Also, thanks to my team, they did an incredible job this year. Sometimes we crashed, sometimes we had good races and finally we are here. I’m really happy. It’s a special day for me today because this Championship is for my dad. It has always been my dream. He’s not here anymore, he passed away, but I feel he is watching. I’m really happy. It’s an incredible day for me and we are World Champion. Thanks to everyone!”

WorldSBK Race 1 Podium (full results here)

1 Jonathan Rea (Kawasaki Racing Team WorldSBK)
2 Toprak Razgatlioglu (Pata Yamaha with Brixx WorldSBK) +0.670s
3 Scott Redding (Aruba.it Racing – Ducati) +2.155s

Race Two
A shortened race two for the final battle of the 2021 MOTUL FIM Superbike World Championship at Indonesia’s Mandalika International Street Circuit provided plenty of drama in wet conditions.  Rain reduced the race to 12 laps, with Jonathan Rea (Kawasaki Racing Team WorldSBK) taking his second victory of the weekend after battling with Scott Redding (Aruba.it Racing – Ducati).  Third went to BMW’s Michael van der Mark, with newly-crowned world champion Toprak Razgatlioglu on the Yamaha fourth.

As the race got underway, newly crowned Champion Toprak Razgatligolu (Pata Yamaha with Brixx WorldSBK) held the race lead, with the top five quickly breaking away with Rea and Redding taking charge. Rea and Redding both exchanged first place as they looked to end the season on the top step of the rostrum, including a superb move by Rea around the outside of the Ducati rider on lap seven. As the final lap started, Redding was able to make a move into turn one before Rea responded at turn ten.  Heading into turn 16, Redding went up the inside of Rea but ran wide, allowing Rea to move back into the lead of the race and claim his second victory at Mandalika.

Axel Bassani (Motocorsa Racing) got a good start to be in the lead group of five riders, and on lap four he looked to move up the order into a podium place. Into turn 17, Bassani and Michael van der Mark (BMW Motorrad WorldSBK Team) made contact and Bassani crashed out of the race, with the incident placed under investigation by the FIM WorldSBK Stewards, with no further action taken. On the run to turn 17, Bassani and Razgatlioglu were battling which allowed van der Mark to get alongside Bassani on the exit.

Van der Mark and Razgatlioglu fought for third place with the former teammates going head-to-head for the final place on the podium, with van der Mark passing the 2021 Champion on lap 7 to claim his third podium of the 2021 and the 50th podium placement in WorldSBK for BMW. Razgatlioglu came home in fourth place meaning the gap between him and Rea at the end of the season was 13 points, while it also secured the Manufacturers’ Championship for Yamaha for only the second time; Yamaha winning the Riders’, Teams’ and Manufacturers’ titles in 2021.

Tom Sykes (BMW Motorrad WorldSBK Team) finished his BMW stint with a top five finish in the wet conditions, finishing three seconds clear of Garrett Gerloff (GRT Yamaha WorldSBK Team) in sixth place. Gerloff’s result, coupled with Bassani’s retirement, meant Gerloff claimed the Best Independent Rider award for 2021. He finished ahead of teammate Kohta Nozane in seventh place, the best of his rookie season in WorldSBK as he ended the season on a high.

Andrea Locatelli (Pata Yamaha with Brixx WorldSBK) finished in eighth place after a battle with Michael Ruben Rinaldi (Aruba.it Racing – Ducati) in race two. Although Rinaldi did get ahead of Locatelli on track, he had a crash at turn six which forced him out of the race and allowed Locatelli to claim fourth in the Championship standings. Following the race, Rinaldi was transported to RSUD NTB Hospital by air ambulance for further assessments after being diagnosed with a cervical strain. Isaac Viñales (Orelac Racing VerdNatura) ended his rookie campaign with his best result of the season with ninth, ahead of fellow Spaniard Alvaro Bautista (Team HRC); whose Team HRC career ended with a top ten finish.

Frenchman Christophe Ponsson (Gil Motor Sport-Yamaha) finished 11th place after he battled with the retiring Chaz Davies (Team GoEleven) in the closing stages of the race, with Davies ending his WorldSBK career with 99 podiums, 32 victories and 2999.5 points. Tito Rabat (Kawasaki Puccetti Racing) finished in 13th place and Samuele Cavalieri (Barni Racing Team) was 14th and the last of the classified riders.

Despite a good start and running in the top six, Leandro Mercado (MIE Racing Honda Team) crashed out of the race at turn 14. Oliver König (OUTDO TPR Team Pedercini Racing) was declared unfit after a race one crash, where he was diagnosed with a minimal head injury. Leon Haslam’s Team HRC farewell came to a premature end after he was declared unfit with a right shoulder functional impairment and missed both races, while Alex Lowes (Kawasaki Racing Team WorldSBK) was declared unfit with a right acromioclavicular join separation.

Jonathan Rea (Kawasaki Racing Team WorldSBK): “Super happy. Thanks to my team, they made all the right decisions. After our tough FP1, we got the bike in a really good area. To come here and win in the dry, win in the wet, in front of the amazing fans… massive thanks to the fans who stayed around in the wet weather. It was so nice to get a race, albeit it was very wet. Super happy with our effort this year. I rode with a lot of heart. I did my best, no regrets. Congratulations again to Toprak and Yamaha and look forward to battling again in 2022.”

WorldSBK Race 2 Podium (full results here)

1 Jonathan Rea (Kawasaki Racing Team WorldSBK)
2 Scott Redding (Aruba.it Racing – Ducati) +0.283s
3 Michael van der Mark (BMW Motorrad WorldSBK Team) +7.437s

2021 Championship standings(full results here)

1 Toprak Razgatlioglu (Pata Yamaha with Brixx WorldSBK) 564
2 Jonathan Rea (Kawasaki Racing Team WorldSBK) 551
3 Scott Redding (Aruba.it Racing – Ducati) 501

New Products: VR46 Signature D.I.D Chain

By
PB
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0

Legendary MotoGP rider Valentino Rossi has become the official brand ambassador for D.I.D chains. As Rossi continues to compete in the world’s highest level of racing, his Yamaha YZR-M1 will be equipped with his own D.I.D signature series VR46 chain.

Rossi’s signature chain is the same one that is currently used on his Petronas MotoGP bike.

If you’re not a MotoGP race, don’t stress, D.I.D have made the VR46 chain available for everyday riders. The VR46 chain will come with a “Sole e Luna (Sun and Moon)”  VR46’s symbol mark, with a silver outer plate and gold inner plate.

D.I.D’s VR46 VX3 SB Series includes the 520VX3, 525VX3 chains, Suitable for both street and off road motorcycles from 350cc to 1100cc. The VX Series X’ring chains also boasts a much longer chain life than the VO Series O’ring chains due to the patented X-Ring technology. The 520VX3 has a 32 per cent longer chain life than the 520VO and the 525VX3 has a 41 per cent longer chain life!

Head to your local motorcycle store to find out more info on the VR46 D.I.D chain.

Available now from your local motorcycle store. For more stock and D.I.D chain questions, head to the McLeod Accessories website here. Check out the pricing info below!

VR46 D.I.D Collaoration Chain Pricing

  • 6108156 DRIVE CHAIN 520VR46 SB – 120 ZB (VX3) X-RING SILVER GOLD     $149.95
  • 6108158 DRIVE CHAIN 525VR46 SB – 120 ZB (VX3) X-RING SILVER GOLD     $179.95
  • 6108159 DRIVE CHAIN 525VR46 SB – 124 ZB (VX3) X-RING SILVER GOLD     $189.95

Tech Tips: Turning Your Road Bike Into A Racing Machine

By
PB
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0

Given the performance levels of current generation motorcycles, you have probably discovered that your road riding experience these days is dominated by the feeling of frustration at not being able to use your machine to anywhere near its full potential, without being in constant fear of losing your licence.

Ever considered turning your road bike into a track day bike or even a competitive race bike? We have you covered with everything you need to know…

If you have supplemented your road riding with some ride days, are running in the fast group and now find you spend most of your day at the local track being held up by slower traffic, then the logical progression is to have a go at racing. The good news is that if you own a late model sports bike or nakedbike, then you already have a great base from which to build a competitive racing motorcycle by carrying out some reasonably straightforward improvements.

This guide is designed to take you through the modifications required to convert your existing road bike into a race specification machine, and covers a range of performance levels to suit your budget and skill level.

It’s always good to start out on a slightly lower capacity bike and make your way up the categories.

The bike you start with is really going to determine how important engine modifications are to your lap times. If you are running a late model 1000cc bike and you’re starting out in racing, then you can’t fully utilise the 162bhp your stock bike has. 

If you are running a 600cc machine then more horsepower could definitely give you an advantage, especially in passing down the straights during a race, so your requirements may be different. I’m going to break this down into a number of stages, and if you’re inexperienced then I really recommend keeping engine mods to a minimum and spending your dollars on suspension setup, weight reduction and practice, as that is where you will find the biggest improvements.

Bolt-on upgrades are always the best to start with if you’re new to racing. It helps you learn how to pull apart and replace parts on your new bike. Which you’ll be doing a fair bit of.

Stage 1 – Bolt-ons
The obvious starting point for engine upgrades is to use off the shelf parts that do not require the engine to be rebuilt. As a start point a slip-on muffler ($250-$800) or Stainless Steel full race exhaust system ($1200-$2000), race airfilter ($80), plus a Power Commander and map from a reputable dyno room ($800-$1200), will get you around 170HP at the back wheel on a late model Japanese 1000 and a good clean torque curve right through your acceleration zone. This is really all you need to do to your engine until you are running top 15 in one of the major Australian Championship classes.

Stage 2 – Light internal mods
If pulling your engine out and taking the head off is not too scary for you, then a relatively simple and cheap mod is to install a thinner head gasket ($200), which will give a noticeable improvement in torque and throttle response, and brings your power up to around the 175HP mark. At this stage I’d also look to add a quickshifter ($350-$600), which not only improves acceleration but also allows you to “spend” valuable concentration in other areas.

When you find yourself pulling apart the engine for more power, thats how you know its all getting very serious.

Stage 3 – Getting serious
If a 200hp monster is what you really must have, then serious engine work is the only way to get there. This is going to require camshafts ($1200-$1800), a CNC ported head and multi angle valve job ($1500-$2000) plus possibly machining of the pistons, blueprinting and labour ($1500-$2500). Alternatively you can drop your motor off to someone like PTR Racing or Motologic and just ask them to build you an ASBK spec motor ($6,000-$8,000).

Suspension
This is an area where correct setup is critical to lap times no matter what type of machine you ride. If there is one area of bike preparation on which to focus, this is it. Poorly set up suspension will not only be the biggest barrier to improving your lap speed, it could also land you in hospital and see your pride and joy being carted home in a wheelbarrow.

Suspension is imperative to a good lap time. You shouldn’t be fighting the bike, so a good front end setup will help.

Again there are a range of options here and buying the most expensive Ohlins WSBK kit is not necessarily the answer. Installation of the correct springs for your weight and an after market valve kit into your stock forks and shock ($800-$1200) by a reputable specialist such as Terry Hay’s Shock Treatment will make an enormous difference to lap times and allow you to find your limit more safely. You should also add an aftermarket steering damper ($250-$500) to keep those headshake issues under control as your new motor has the front wheel pawing at the sky. 

Next in line on the suspension upgrade list are race specification fork cartridges from Race Tech ($1200) or Ohlins ($1800), plus an aftermarket Shock ($1400-$2000), which will provide further improvement. If you want to get really serious then a set of SBK specification gas charged Ohlins or K-Tech front forks ($13,000-$16,000) will certainly make you the envy of all in pit lane, just don’t forget the factory technician to service and set them up.

“Most of the national classes in Australian racing are quite restrictive in terms of the modifications you can make to the braking system.”

Brakes
Most of the national classes in Australian racing are quite restrictive in terms of the modifications you can make to the braking system. Modern sports bikes do have extremely efficient brakes as standard, however they are set up more for road use than the repeated high load requirements found during a circuit race.

You can achieve significant improvements and a very good braking package by simply adding braided front brake lines from an aftermarket supplier such as HEL, Galfer or Goodridge ($80-$150) and some race specification pads ($50-$200). 

Upgrading to braided lines on an older bike can make a noticeable difference to braking pressure!

In choosing pads there are a huge amount of options out there. I personally use Performance Friction pads, and have found them to be excellent, however others have achieved equally good results with products from EBC, Brembo, SBS, the list goes on. 

Last but not least is some high performance brake fluid. What you are looking for here is a high wet boiling point. Castrol’s SRF ($160/L) is probably the most popular choice out there, but I have also had excellent results from Motul RBF 660($30/500ml). These three modifications will give a substantial increase in feel and braking power over the stock road setup, and most importantly they will dramatically reduce the amount of “fade” you experience towards the end of a race.

If the rules allow then an upgraded front master-cylinder should be next on your shopping list. Brembo offer an 18-20 x 19 RCS option ($400-$500), which allows adjustability between increased feel from the 18 ratio and a stronger bite using the 20 option. This is great if you are new to the race scene and aren’t yet sure what you prefer, and it’s not substantially more expensive than a non-adjustable aftermarket master-cylinder. The performance increase from a master-cylinder change will depend on how good your stock system was to begin with, however I did notice a substantial improvement on my GSX-R1000 from the Brembo MC.

If rules and budget are not restrictive, then it’s time to look at some aftermarket rotors and calipers. On the rear I normally just run a wave type rotor ($150-$250) to save approx 100g of rotating mass and leave everything else stock, as I rarely use the rear brake unless I’m off in a gravel trap! On the front you can look to a wave type setup from Galfer or Braking ($600-$800), however most of the front running teams are still using traditional circular rotors from Brembo ($800-$1500). 

Ensure you’re lock-wiring parts such as your calipers so you don’t run into problems while out on track.

For callipers Brembo have a range of options starting at their cast entry level items ($1000-$1500/set) and progressing up to their ultra trick race specification billet Monoblocs ($6000-$8000/set).

Bodywork
Replacing your stock bodywork with something more suitable for track use is highly recommended and due to the rules for most series stipulating a bellypan able to hold a certain amount of fluid, pretty much essential. Aftermarket fairings made from fibreglass ($800-$1200) or carbon-fibre ($2000-$3000) will save a substantial amount of weight from the heavy stock plastics and are also much easier and cheaper to repair if you happen to have an off. At this time I would also suggest picking up a slightly damaged tank from a wrecker if you can find one at a reasonable price ($350-$700), as replacing a stock tank is a very expensive exercise if you want to return your bike to road trim down the track.

Other items on the bodywork list include fibreglass/carbon-fibre air-intake ducts, tank cover, chain guard and rear hugger. All these items will be lighter in fibreglass or carbon-fibre and will also be cheaper than replacing damaged OEM components. While you are doing the bodywork consider moving to an aftermarket screen from Zero Gravity or Puig ($80-$150) and I would recommend a double bubble unit if the rules in your class allow. Again this will be cheaper than replacing an EOM item if it gets damaged and a double bubble design reduces buffeting immensely when you pop up to hit the brakes at the end of the straight.

Some fairing suppliers now offer to supply your race bodywork with the gel coat pre coloured to your requirements. The finish and tone may not be as good as quality paintwork, however it is a very cost effective way of having some colour on your bike and with the addition of a few stickers will still look fine from 10 metres away. If you want a full custom paint job then prices can vary widely ($500-$2000) depending on the complexity and quality you require. 

Replacing your battery with a Lithium Ion battery can save a few KG off the bike.

Weight Reduction
Weight is the enemy of just about everything that makes a motorcycle go fast around a racetrack. Acceleration, braking and cornering performance are all hugely effected by the overall weight of the bike and any reductions can have significant benefits in reducing lap times and also tyre wear. Depending on the rules in your class you may be quite limited in what you are allowed to change on the bike and may also have a minimum weight limit, however here are some things you can do if the rules allow. 

Probably the easiest and best bang for your buck weight reduction item available these days comes through replacing the stock lead acid battery with a much lighter and smaller Lithium-Ion unit ($200-$400). This will save multiple kilograms for the price of a few hundred dollars and let me tell you, the top WSBK teams are spending thousands to save a few grams by the time they get to the end of weight reduction programs.

Good quality shocks will not only reduce weight but will improve the overall handling of the bike.

Next on the list are lightweight aluminium alloy fasteners. You would be shocked to find out how many nuts and bolts there really are on a motorcycle and to say you could replace somewhere in the region of 150-200 steel bolts with aluminium would not be overstating it. Just don’t get too excited with this, structural bolts such as engine mounts, brake calliper mounts, triple clamp bolts, etc should all be left off the alloy replacement list. You do not want to have a brake calliper bolt shear through when you hit the anchors at over 280km/ph into turn one at SMSP! 

Still on fasteners you can spend hours knocking off the spare 3-5mm of thread on the end of structural steel bolts, and drilling out hollow bolts for items such as the subframe mounts to an extra 1mm oversize. I was once talking to the owner of a well known performance shop about this type of work and his attitude was, “Just go and have a piss before you race, it will save more weight than drilling out that bolt”.

“Well yes and I do but you can only have one piss and all these little things add up to make a big difference when you multiply it by 200.”

Speaking of sub-frames, alloy aftermarket race units are available for most sports bikes ($500-$800). Alternatively you could save quite a bit of weight here by reducing the amount of brackets in the stock item, and replacing the heavy plastic OEM undertray with fibreglass or carbon-fibre unit, although you may have to make this up yourself as I haven’t found suitable items to be readily available off the shelf.

If budget and class rules are not a problem then a set of lightweight aftermarket wheels are possibly the most significant weight reduction item you can add, due to the fact that any weight saved here is both unsprung (improved suspension action) and rotating (improved handling, acceleration and braking). Aftermarket aluminium rims are the most cost effective option ($1500-$2500/set) and should provide a small but noticeable improvement over OEM. For a more pronounced improvement Magnesium Alloy ($2500-$4000) or carbon-fibre ($4000-$5000) are the materials of choice for WSBK and GP teams and look just as trick as they perform.

Other Add-Ons
The majority of race series now require high strength engine case covers to be fitted, as modern OEM covers are very fragile, and also a shark fin rear sprocket guard to prevent “Daryl Beattie syndrome” (No toes). Damaging engine cases in a crash will almost definitely result in a serious amount of oil on the track, which is dangerous for other competitors and creates a lot of clean up work for the marshals. Kits are available from Vortex, GB Racing, Woodcraft, Yoshimura and others ($250-$500) and while you are at it get some rear stand swingarm bobbins ($40-$80).

To protect the expensive OEM items and allow increased adjustability, you should look to replace the standard handlebars with aftermarket clip-ons ($150-$250) and swap OEM footpegs with adjustable rearsets ($350-$800), from Vortex, Renthal, Woodcraft, Yoshimura, Sato or similar. I also prefer some grips with a little more bite and find the Renthal dual compounds to work very well ($25). 

Makle modifications to help you feel comfortable on the bike. You’re not going to be your fastest if you’re uncomfortable.

While not essential a 520 chain conversion kit ($250-$400) will reduce power losses to the rear wheel and allow a wide choice of gearing options, as this is the most popular pitch for racing world wide. A lot of national series run a control tyre at the moment, which means you don’t have to worry about making a choice and prices average around $550 per set. 

If you do not need to run a control tyre, then some brands can be picked up for around $480/set fitted and you would expect to go through a minimum of two sets per race weekend. Also keep in mind that you will need spare tyres in reasonable condition for practice days, so it’s advisable not to race them until they are completely finished. The last thing you want to do is be trying to race on completely shot tyres, then shell out for a brand new set just for practice. It’s far better to partially use one extra set of tyres on race day and leave yourself with enough rubber for your next practice session.

Lockwiring
Finally on the bike preparation front, all race bikes are required as a minimum to have the following items lockwired – oil filler cap, oil filter, sump plug, radiator cap and front brake calliper bolts. I like to use a hose clamp around the oil filter, and “R” clips through the caps and calliper bolts, this allows easy removal without having to rewire everything each time.

Check out how to lockwire your bike here…

Riding Gear
Before you get out on track you are going to need some decent protective clothing. The price of leathers has come down significantly in the last decade and reasonable quality kit is now available for a much more affordable price ($500-$800). If you want something with a bit more style and comfort then you can upgrade to some premium brand Leathers from Dainese, Alpinestar, Spidi, or similar ($1200-$1800). For those who are a bit different in body shape or just want a custom design or perfect fit, made to measure leathers are produced locally by specialists such as Ricondi, Trinity Racewear, Quin Leathers or Tiger Angel ($1500-$2500).

A back protector ($100-$350), gloves ($100-$400) and boots ($250-$600) are all mandatory and you should always shell out on the best kit you can afford in this area. Trying on a range of brands and styles is a good idea, as they all have a slightly different fit and some will suit your individual body shape better than others.

Decent riding gear is very important, get a reputable brand as you don’t want anything other than the best if you come off your bike at 200km/h+

The last and most important item is a quality helmet. If you’ve been around motorcycles for a while, then you’ve no doubt heard the phrase, “If you’ve got a $10 head, wear a $10 helmet”. Surgeons are pretty skilled these days and can repair most things you are likely to break in an accident, however your brain is not on that list. Spend some dollars and protect it. In my personal opinion, if you can’t afford a $500 helmet as a minimum, then you can’t afford to go racing. Cheaper lids do pass all the safety criteria, or you wouldn’t be allowed to buy them, however they tend to be heavier, which increases the whip force when your head smashes into something solid (like bitumen).

Top range helmets, think Shoei, Arai, AGV ($600-$1200) are lighter, more comfortable, afford a better field of vision and have had the R&D dollars spent to ensure the best possible fit and protection.

Get yourself a decent enclosed trailer. You’ll be able to fit everything you need and more for the weekend in it.

Equipment
Additional equipment you will require to go racing includes a trailer or van to get the bike to and from the track, and what you choose here will generally reflect what you can afford and also what suits your requirements away from racing. I use a box trailer ($800-$1400) with a runner and tie down points, and chose this option as it does double duty for garbage and mulch shifting purposes. A fully enclosed trailer ($3000-$6000) would be ideal if you want everything locked up and protected and also allows you to leave tools and parts stored in the trailer at home rather than having to unpack after every meeting.

Check out our transportation tips here…

Front and rear stands are mandatory ($250-$450/set) and I’d recommend going with a head lifting style front stand, which allows easy removal of the front forks for suspension adjustment.

Tyre warmers ($250-$800) are really an essential item these days. Modern race tyres are designed to run only one to three heat cycles, so you need to get them warm, and keep them warm all day to reduce the negative effects. They are also intended to run off tyre warmers and will cold tear badly if you try to ride without heat in them. Trust me, your reduced tyre bill will pay for the warmers after only a couple of race weekends and going out on pre-heated rubber will also dramatically reduce the chances of a first lap crash.

Other desirable equipment includes a decent tool kit, crash spares including clip-ons and footpegs as a minimum and preferably spare fairings and screen, brake levers, throttle tube and grips. Also include cable ties, lock wire, duct tape, spare knee and toe sliders, tinted and clear visors, ear plugs, alternative sprockets, spare rims with wets, chairs and table, extension leads and power boards, Loctite and a selection of nuts bolts and washers.

 

Review: 2019 BMW S 1000 RR World Launch Report

By
PB
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With every part on the motorcycle redesigned it is safe to the the new S 1000 RR, BMW Motorrad’s flagship motorcycle, is a completely new model. In an environment of declining sportsbike sales it is refreshing to see a manufacturer put their engineering and technical wizardry proudly on display and on sale…

What better place to stretch the legs of the 207hp beast than the long straights of Estoril.

BMW test rider, all-round good guy and 250GP hero Jurgen Fuchs turns to us and asks, “You guys haven’t ridden here before. We will take it easy for a few laps, I will show you the way”. Somehow, having experienced riding with Jurgen on previous S 1000 RR launches (I won’t expand on the 3am drive around Portimao years ago doing jumps in a BMW M3), I knew that ‘easy’ was a load of crap and he was going to cut loose for us.

Check out our other bike reviews here…

Firing up the M Package S 1000 RR for the first time, I’m met with a wild, highly tuned rumble. I’m excited. It has been a long trip from Sydney. I look around at the other guys and off we go, the only reservation I have are the tyres. I just don’t know why the M Package, at a racetrack, has the road and 10 per cent track S21s on it. As brilliant as they are on the road, I know the limitation here will be the tyres well before anything else…

No words required when there are a bunch of M Model S 1000 RRs waiting to be thrashed…

We ride out of Estoril’s pit lane, the giant grandstands eerily empty but the history of the place definitely present as the S 1000 RR engines echo off the concrete walls either side.

Onto the track at turn one, Jurgen turns and looks at us, then takes off. On cold, new, unscrubbed rubber, we are into it. The bike doesn’t feel familiar at all. If it didn’t have BMW badges on it, it could be another brand. It feels so light, so flickable and smooth.

The Bridgestone S21 are a great road tyre but struggled at Estoril, so we had Battlax V02 slicks in the end.

Carefully following the lads around this incredible circuit for the first lap to get familiar and warmed up, Jurgen showing us the neat lines with his distinctly smooth 250 style, the S 1000 RR is immediately impressive. However, even without hard braking, the brake package stands out. It just doesn’t have the feel and power of before. The traction control on my bike is working overtime as the rear tyre tries to smoke up in the long, third gear right-hander.

Jurgen pins it and we all go. It’s a special moment for me, three legends on a legendary track, riding at my pace, Jurgen Fuchs, Steve Martin and Cameron Donald. We have the track to ourselves and I’m already grinning as I sit up to brake from 280km/h at the end of the long straight.

The new 1000 is light and flickable making change of direction effortless says Jeff.

The pace increases, with smooth riding and super neat lines from Jurgen, who did 26,000km of testing on racetracks for BMW with this model last year! My left knee touches down for the first time, in the first tight left hairpin. This is the first time I realise the bike is too soft for me in these settings (Pro 1 pre-set by BMW for the session) as the rear sags and the bike wants to go wide.

On the gas, the electronics fight the bike and as we up the pace the S 1000 RR starts to feel more and more like a 600 supersport bike power-wise. The traction control is pulling everything back. It’s frustrating me as we have limited laps (three 15-minute sessions) but I need to learn the track enough to push hard later.

No mucking around by Jurgen Fuchs in the sighting laps at this launch, getting it on the back wheel instantly!

The sighting lap turns into seven of them as Jurgen urges us to keep riding with him even after we were signalled to come in, I think he is enjoying the company of Steve and Cam for a change from us usual journalists. So off we go, head down, I literally rode the wheels off the bike in the soft settings and it was a laugh. I’m sure the other guys were cruising. Top speed was just over 290km/h and by the end of it I am happy I know the track well enough to get on with the job…

My first solo 15-minute session comes after a quick rest. I ask one of the staff to change the settings for me to give some more support on the front under brakes, which is where, at 90kg, I always have a problem. I head out and this time run through my usual testing range I have developed over the past 20-years in the job.

Tucked in and powering onto the chute at full throttle, I tuck in tight and shift through the ‘box via the quickshifter. Set in road pattern, the shift is firm but smooth. I go as fast as I dare, again nudging 290km/h, before sitting up and braking hard for turn one, the 80km/h right-hander. I flick the bike right, left, and right then hard on the gas. So light, so flickable. The biggest stand out is the weight. The bulky feel of the outgoing model is long gone. This feels like a 600. Amazing…

The torque is brilliant and I take advantage of that mid-range boost powering down the hill to the right-hand, off camber up hill turn three. Braking deep, late and at lean angle after messing up the entry is a heart-in-mouth moment. Thankfully, the ABS saves the day as the tyre lets go. I’ll know next lap…

Drive uphill to turn four is stunning. Turn four is a long, increasing radius flat left leading onto a very fast kink. I don’t feel comfortable here. Lack of tyre feel, soft suspension and I can’t get the revs right as I can’t carry the speed I want to. Off this turn, the S 1000 RR is scary fast. I try to hold on with my knees and lock on, shifting up through the ‘box, then knee on the ground at 230km/h through the turn five kink, where a big dip that would surely unsettle most bikes is soaked up by the ingenious suspension.

Tucking in again, I realise how well I fit on the bike and although it is tiny, the screen and fairing completely isolate me from the air pressure. I get to glance at the dash here also, which I must say is the easiest to read of all the sportsbikes on the market.

The dash is the best in the game, large, easy to read and navigate even at racetrack speeds. Brilliant.

Hard braking for the awesome parabolica, turn six, I notice the very first signs of brake fade for the day. It’s worrying me, as I haven’t really started to push hard yet… What will the brakes be like later?

Holding a line through turn seven is so easy. Knee down, run it wide, pull it back in tight at will and stand it up to power it out at full throttle for the long run to turn seven. I would not be able to do that on the previous model. This MY19 is so nimble and raceable in terms of track position changes…

The BMW is really at home on the Estoril track, perfect mix of fast corners and hard braking…

The wheelie control goes mental as the bike screams past 9000rpm and rapidly, I really mean rapidly, goes to maximum rpm before I brake hard for turn seven. Flick it right and drive it hard to turn eight, an awesome quick-flick right hander, I power the bike up to the ultra-tight switch-back chicane, turns 9 and 10, that honestly would be hard even on a 250 GP bike, but the S 1000 RR makes easy work of it.

Now the fun part, letting those incredible electronics keep me out of the ambulance as I hold it on through the turns 11 and 12 esses and into what is definitely one of my new all-time favourite corners, turn 13, parabolica Ayrton Senna… driving through turn 11, I enter 12 with a little front brake on, then flick it right into turn 13 before grabbing third for this amazing long corner, feeding the power on all the way through, the rear wheel is trying to break away but the DTC is reeling it in. The front lacks feel and is a worry… Once a little upright, I open the tap to full and let the beast rip. It’s mind blowing…

Rapid and effortless change of direction, good feedback and stability are the highlights of the new chassis. The 1000 feels like a 600 to throw around.

After lunch our bikes had Bridgestone Battlax V02 slicks fitted and the appropriate settings implemented. I was chomping at the bit to get back out there, waiting in pit lane to jump on my bike…

Well, what a difference. It was like riding an entirely new model again… It is amazing what grip can do. Within a few corners I am already going faster than I could on the OEM tyres and thanks to Nate, a BMW test rider, for setting up the ride mode and suspension for me, the bike feels fantastic.

Loads of grip, feel, support at both ends and whoa… serious power. In fact, to me it doesn’t feel all that much slower than the HP4 Race to be honest, I might even like it more as it is so easy to ride and the electronics are just incredible. Although the HP4 Race audible DTC is something I do love that this hasn’t got… Top speed is now over 295km/h thanks to the drive onto the chute, in fact, I am using a gear higher through the final turn on the slicks!

Everything feels better and all is going so well until five laps in I have one hell of a big scare. Tucked in at over 290km/h, I sit up to brake for the 80km/h turn one and the bike is stuck in top gear as the quickshifter fails and I try to manually backshift but the gearbox won’t do it. Luckily, I have two things up my sleeve – slicks with ABS Pro, and I had already eyed off the run-off ramp at the end of the straight during our slow sighting lap and noted it was unswept and has loose gravel on it.

So, my option is to get the clutch in, full brakes and trust the ABS, and get the thing turned. I manage, somehow, then I force the bike down into third gear and ride it back to the pits. Had I been on the S21, I would be typing this from a hospital in Portugal for sure… scary stuff. The BMW mechanics quickly took the bike and closed the roller door, then rolled a fresh one out for me, but sadly the flag came out. I never did get an explanation about what happened, or at least not one that I believe…

“For the final session everything is smooth. New slicks, racier settings, race shift pattern and the temperature was up to match the blue skies over Estoril.”

During the wait for my third and last ride I did two tracking video laps on a stock bike with completely destroyed S21s, trying to keep up with a fast racer girl on slicks, this gave me the chance to further sample the electronics as the bike slide all over the show. Impressive. And fun!

The S 1000 RR is not tiring to ride despite having insane torque and power. The ride position is commanding but relaxed and the front-end is confidence-inspiring.

The final session was only 15-minutes, but it was one hell of a memorable and thrilling 15-minutes and although I didn’t get a chance to experiment with any electronic settings, I did get a more intimate knowledge and appreciation of the bike and the big standout for me was feel and feedback from the new Flex Twist frame, awesome Marzocchi suspension electronic control, which felt just like a well valved track bike, amazing power and sensational ergonomics.

The negatives? The brakes did not cope with the higher pace, the lever was coming back to my knuckles and I had to adjust it, and to be honest, they were not that good. Initial bite is OK but there is not a lot of stopping power and they fade quickly. They feel out of date and not up to current standards. Whether or not the wrong pads were in for the situation or not we will find out when we get the bike ourselves. It was the main point of discussion among the press between sessions.

The long fast final turn onto the straight was stunning to experience on the S 1000 RR, really highlighting the electronic controls of the bike.

All up, this was a quick test, three 15-minute sessions, one cut short, plus a seven-lap viewing session and a two-lap photoshoot. I learned enough though, for the track test, the bones can’t be argued with – it is light, torquey, full of safety rider aids and looks absolutely awesome…

TECH TALK – 2019 BMW S 1000 RR 

To achieve their target goals for the all-new 1000, BMW had to revisit and re-engineer every component. Not a small task, particularly in a rapidly declining sportsbike market. The result is a technical marvel that truly showcases BMWs ability to produce super high output, low weight and high-tech performance machinery…

Engine output went up by 6kW to 152kW, weight has dropped significantly from 208kg to 197kg (193.5kg M Package), torque is up to 113Nm and spread wider with 100Nm available from 5500rpm to 14500rpm. The new donk is an incredible 4kg lighter than previously and has a maximum rpm of 14,600 screaming revs.

The main goal for BMW was to make the engine more useable, without losing that top end hit. The solution was to come up with variable cam timing, which is called ShiftCam Assist. This increased low and mid-range as well as top-end. The system is unique to BMW but variable valve timing is not new in the class.

The BMW system uses a triple-section intake cam that has two cam lobes per valve, these shift over at 9000rpm in just 10ms as valve actuation transitions between the partial load and full load lobe, depending on whether the revs are climbing or dropping.

Activation is via electromechanical actuators. Valve lift is increased after 9000rpm. The intake and exhaust valves are Titanium and the intake valve stems, in a world first for a production bike, are hollow. Activation is via finger followers, as before, however they are 25 per cent lighter and DLC coated.

The upper crankcase hoses the gearbox and has the cylinders integrated into it. The cases are lighter, stronger and more compact. The cams are driven straight off the crank now, with no idler gear. The oil and water pumps are combined into one multi-pump unit, the starter motor now engages directly with the clutch, helping reduce width of the engine by 12mm. Height is also reduced, although it is not clear how. The ShiftCam system adds 1kg to the engine, however, the 4kg drop is impressive.

Variable intake lengths are used again, which open (shorten) at 11,700rpm. The intake ports, combustion chamber shape, airbox, intake tract are all redesigned. On the exit side, a completely new exhaust system is fitted, which is 1.3kg lighter. Made of stainless-steel, it features a three-way Cat and a front silencer as well as a rear silencer.

Not much is available about the gearbox and clutch, other than that they are refined and improved, with clutch actuation on the right side now. The quickshifter is standard and can easily be switched between race and road pattern.

The electronics package, standard and optional levels, is new and designed to optimise the new engine outputs. The Ride Modes include Rain, Road, Dynamic and Race plus you can opt for the Pro Modes (std on M Package), which allow further Race Pro 1, Race Pro 2 and Race Pro 3.

There is a huge amount of adjustability and only an owner could fully explore these over time, or if we had a long test period, but in short, there are four fixed basic settings – Rain, gentle throttle response and reduced torque in the low gears. Road, optimum road throttle response with torque reduced in the lower gears. Dynamic, same as Road according to the press kit, however, Dynamic is a sportier version of Road. Race, full power and quicker throttle response.

The Pro Modes Race Pro 1-3 can be configured by the rider for the conditions, including engine braking control. The DTC can be switched up and down on the go via a toggle switch. Hill Start Control is standard, it locks the rear brake on at a gradient of plus or minus 5 degrees, shortly after the bike comes to a standstill. There is also a Pit Lane Limiter in all modes.

The suspension is new, supplied by Marzocchi and replacing the Sachs suspension. The forks are 45mm inverted units (previous were 46mm), and feature closed-cartridge inserts. DDC is standard but racers can now revalve the forks as per standard style forks, while still having the benefit of electronic damping control overall. The forks weigh 300g less all up.

The same goes out the back, the DDC valve is fitted with a conventional shim package. There is also an electrically controlled bypass valve and the oil flows parallel to this. If the bypass is activated, the oil flows through the conventional piston assembly only. This depends on Ride Mode and speed.

The basic DDC settings are linked to the Ride Modes. Rain and Road is sporty and comfortable. Dynamic is for smoother, faster country roads and mountains. Race is for fast sports riding or track days and Pro Modes are for serious track work.

All modes can be individually customised in standard and Pro, so it gets confusing, it’s almost limitless.

The frame is new and is called a Flex Frame. This takes some of the stiffness out of the old models, which was always a characteristic of them, and gives a lot more feel to the rider. It’s a welded four-cast frame with a 32-degree tilt forward, but the headstock area is reduced and the engine loaded a lot more. The frame weighs 1.3kg less now and is 13mm narrower.

The swingarm is all-new, weighing 300g less than before and is a single cast underslung unit, positioning the shock upright and further away from the heat of the exhaust and engine. On the M Package the pivot point is adjustable.

The swingarm / shock ratio has been altered from 1.9 to 1.6:1, along with the larger 46mm shock piston, there is a larger hydraulic operating flow and lower operating pressures. The triple-tress and handlebars are all-new, as are the footpegs and hangars.

The 17in wheels are either cast alloy or forged alloy or carbon-fibre (M Package). The stock wheels are 1.6kg lighter than the previous model. The M Package comes with thicker rotors, so some of the weight saving of the cast or carbon wheels is lost to the brakes, however, the brake rotors are up-spec.

Now for the strange part, the awesome Brembo monoblock calipers have been replaced by American Hayes calipers (never heard of them? Neither had I). There is no reason given by BMW and no mention of them in the press kit at all, however, the reason can surely only be cost saving.

I didn’t look at them closely enough, but wish I did, as there is no mention of whether they are monoblock or not and no images at the right angle to see… The Brembo master-cylinder has been replaced by a Nissin item and the rotors are not specified.

There is a new 6.5in TFT dash that is insanely cool. It features everything to get even the most techo hardened person excited. The dash has four screen options, Pure ride for the main road ride details and three Core screens for track use, all accessed via the easy to use multi wheel on the left ‘bar.

As well as the display of ABS Pro, DTC, DDC, speed, rpm, time, temp, odo etc, it is also possible to view bank angle in degrees, deceleration rate, speed warning, ave speed, ave fuel, trip 1 & 2, remaining range, total km, fuel level – all on the road. On track you can view lap time, distance, lap specific speeds, max banking angle, DTC torque reduction Max, number of shifts, ave throttle opening, total laps, best lap.

The RR also features LED lighting all-round, with the indicators now integrated into the mirrors and rear indicators integrated onto the tail light assembly. The styling of the bodywork is completely new and the RR is available in only two colour options, Racing Red or BMW Motorsports.

2019 BMW S 1000 RR HIGHLIGHTS

  • New 4kg lighter engine with ShiftCam technology, 152kW and 113Nm, wider range of torque from 5500rpm to 14500rpm
  • Newly developed Marzocchi suspension and Flex Frame, with the engine taking on more load bearing
  • Haynes brake calipers and Nissin master-cylinder at the front, Brembo rear
  • DDC (Dynamic Damping Control) with new valve generation as an option
  • 11 to 14.5kg weight reduction (std and M version)
  • ABS Pro as standard, cornering ABS
  • New Ride Modes including Rain, Road, Dynamic and Race as standard and three optional modes Race Pro 1, 2 & 3
  • Launch control
  • Pit lane limiter
  • Shift Assist Pro two-way quickshifter standard
  • New TFT dash
  • LED lights

2019 BMW S 1000 RR OPTIONS

  • M Package – Pro Mode, Motorsport paint, M carbon wheels, M lightweight battery, M sports seat, M chassis kit with ride height adjuster and adjustable swingarm pivot.
  • Dynamic Package – Next generation Dynamic Damping Control, heated grips, cruise control
  • Race Package – Pro Mode, M forged alloy wheels, M lightweight battery, M chassis kit and adjustable swingarm pivot.
  • Other – Alarm, Passenger seat cover, RDC tyre pressure control, E-call.

There is a huge range of other options for the bike, check out your local dealer or BMW Motorrad website.

2019 BMW S 1000 RR (Std) Specifications

As tested – M Package: Includes Pro Mode, Motorsport Paint, M carbon-fibre wheels, M lightweight battery, M sport seat, M chassis kit with ride height adjustment and swingarm pivot adjustment. Mirrors were removed, tested on Bridgestone S21 then Bridgestone V02 slicks.

Price: N/A as tested; Std. from $23,550 + ORC
Claimed Power: 152kW[207hp]@13500rpm
Claimed Torque: 113Nm[@10500rpm
Wet/Dry Weight: 197kg
Fuel capacity: 16.5L

Engine: Liquid-cooled in-line four-cylinder engine, 999cc, DOHC, 80 x 49.7mm bore x stroke, Valve activation via individual rocker arms, variable intake camshaft control system BMW ShiftCam,
Gearbox: Constant mesh six-speed
Clutch: Self-reinforcing multi-plate anti-hopping wet clutch

Chassis: Aluminium composite bridge frame, self-supporting engine, aluminium underslung double-sided swinging arm
Suspension: Marzocchi USD telescopic fork, slide tube diameter 45mm, spring preload, compression and rebound stage adjustable, Marzocchi central spring strut rear, spring preload, adjustable compression and rebound stage
Brakes: BMW Motorrad ABS Pro, dual 320mm rotors, radial four-piston Hayes calipers, single rear 220mm rotor, single-piston floating Brembo caliper
Wheels & Tyres: Die-cast aluminium wheels, 3.50 x 17in, 6.00 x 17in, 120/70 ZR17, 190/55 ZR17

DIMENSIONS
Wheelbase: 1441mm
Seat height: 824mm
Overall width: 846mm
Overall Length: 2073mm

Instruments: 6.5-inch TFT screen, multiple display modes

 

Aussie Hero #87 Remy Gardner Wins Moto2 World Crown!

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PB
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After winning the Moto2 championship last year. Remy will be out looking for wins in the premier class this year!
After winning the Moto2 championship last year. Remy will be out looking for wins in the premier class this year!

Remy Gardner is the 2021 FIM Moto2 World Champion! Heading in with a 23-point advantage, the Australian needed to take a handful of points in the Gran Premio Motul de la Comunitat Valenciana to wrap up the crown, and that he did with a tenth place finish. 

After an incredible season of consistency with 12 podiums, of which five have been victories, the number 87 kept his nerve to the last to become a World Champion.

Son of 1987 500cc Champion Wayne Gardner, Remy Gardner started riding bikes early as he got his first motorcycle at the age of four. He began his career racing dirt track and long track, as a good few greats from Down Under have done before him, competing at state and national level in his native Australia.

He then switched to tarmac not long after, and his first international race came in late 2010 thanks to an invite from Honda Australia to compete at the NSF100 Trophy Worldwide Mini Bike race in Albacete, Spain. Later that same year, Gardner made his Australian road race debut at the iconic Phillip Island, winning the MRRDA Australian Nippers Championship.

Remy is son of 1987 500cc World Champion, Wayne Gardner. Bringing the family name back into the spotlight.

The next step in his career would prove crucial as Gardner travelled to Spain to compete in the pre-Moto3™ class in the Mediterranean Championship in 2011. He came second overall, and that prefaced a full-time move to Spain for 2012. The Aussie has called the country home ever since.

Gardner entered the Moto3™ class in the CEV for the first time in 2012, finishing most races and scoring points in his debut season. In 2013 he made more progress, including taking his first top five finish at the Albacete round, and he remained in the Championship for 2014 and took another step forward, scoring points in every race he started bar one and taking his first podium.

When Remy signed with KTM, it was a major turning point in his career after making a quick move from Moto3 to Moto2…

Gardner also made his Grand Prix debut that season, racing at Misano, Phillip Island and Sepang. His final appearance at the Malaysian Grand Prix provided a milestone as the Aussie scored his first World Championship point, finishing fifteenth. The move to the World Championship came full-time for 2015, and the NSW native finished the season 30th overall aboard a Mahindra – with his home Grand Prix at Phillip Island proving a highlight as Gardner took his first top ten finish Down Under.

For 2016, Gardner then moved to bigger machinery, taking on the Moto2™ European Championship with Race Experience and, from the Catalan GP on, the Moto2™ World Championship with Tasca Racing. In the former he impressed with a top five in Race 2 at MotorLand, before signing off his participation with his first win in Race 2 in Barcelona – and by a sizeable margin.

An emotional moment for the Aussie after an up and down season with KTM Ajo…

The same Circuit de Barcelona-Catalunya also staged his Moto2™ World Championship debut, which saw Gardner come home in P15 and score a point first time out, just week before his first European Moto2™ win. Impressing with his adaptation, Gardner then remained in the Moto2™ World Championship for the remainder of 2016, taking more points at the Sachsenring with a 12th-place finish and another points P13 at Sepang.

His performances earned him a seat at Tech3 Racing for 2017, and he was a regular points scorer, taking his first top ten in the Moto2™ World Championship with a ninth place at Brno. 2018 saw the Aussie take more points and move further forward once again, the progress clear despite a motocross accident ahead of the Spanish GP in which he broke both his legs. Once he was back from injury though, Gardner picked up where he left off, took his first front row at Silverstone and then ended both the season and his tenure with Tech3 in style at Valencia with his first Moto2™ top five.

The Red Bull KTM Ajo secured the constructors championship early after an amazing season!

2019 and 2020 added more milestones as Gardner moved to the SAG Team. In 2019 the number 87 took his first Grand Prix podium with second place at Termas de Rio Hondo, as well as setting the fastest lap, and the TT Circuit Assen saw the Australian take his first pole position. 2020 began with a top five in Qatar, Gardner took pole in Austria and by the Styrian GP he was back on the podium. However, a crash in Warm Up at Misano – where he was set to start from pole – saw the Aussie facing more injury struggles with a fracture to his left hand. He missed that race and the Emilia-Romagna GP, returning at Catalunya but only taking P16 after riding through the pain barrier. From there though, the momentum began its crescendo that would culminate in the 2021 Moto2™ crown: second at Le Mans, two top fives at MotorLand, and third and seventh at Valencia. 

For 2021, the rider on a roll joined Red Bull KTM Ajo and the rest is history, or likely become so. The number 87 started the season with three podiums in a row in Qatar, Doha and Portimão, before a fourth place from pole in Jerez. Le Mans was another podium, this time in second place, before Gardner won three in a row on an incredible run of form: Mugello, Catalunya and Germany, the latter of which was the 200th Moto2™ race. Another podium at Assen saw him head into the summer break with an advantage in the title fight of 31 points.

Remy’s main rival was his teammate Raul Fernandez, the healthy competition was what secured the team a win in the constructors championship…

His closest rival, however, was teammate Raul Fernandez and the rookie sensation would continue to prove the key challenger as the season rolled on. Gardner came back from the summer break off the podium in both races at the Red Bull Ring as Raul Fernandez took another win in the second, not going down without a fight. The Australian hit back with victory at Silverstone as his teammate crashed out, but both Aragon and San Marino saw the number 87 forced to settle for second as Raul Fernandez began a serious comeback and strung together his own run of three wins in a row – including at the Circuit of the Americas, where Gardner made his first big mistake of the season and crashed out.

As the paddock returned to Misano for the Emilia-Romagna GP, the gap between the two was just nine points… but there was another twist in the tale just around the corner. Despite the race proving a tougher once for Gardner, Raul Fernandez crashed out the lead – doubling Gardner’s advantage in one fell swoop as the gap shot back out to 18 points in favour the Australian. That set up the first match point in the Moto2™ World Championship for the Algarve GP, and despite a dramatic crash on Friday that left Gardner riding a little bruised on Sunday, the Australian dug deep and took an incredible win under intense pressure from his teammate.

Heading into the final round, it was looking like Remy could lose the his certain title. But the Aussie stayed calm to come home in tenth…

After a Red Flag and restart, Gardner kept his nerve from P8 on the grid, dropping a couple of places and duelling it out in the latter half of the top ten. Raul Fernandez had to win to keep his chances alive and that the number 25 did, but Gardner stayed calm and avoided any risks near the front to come out on top in the fight for tenth – three places higher than he needed – and take a history-making World Championship crown. Wayne and Remy join Kenny Roberts and Kenny Roberts Jr as father and son World Champions.

Remy Gardner: “It’s definitely been an intense season. Raul did an amazing job this year, as a rookie he really made me work for it for sure. It’s such an amazing season, so many podiums, great races, four wins. [Speaker: five wins]. Five wins? Five. Well that shows how much I’m keeping track. It’s been an incredible season. So many parc fermes and podiums, incredible moments with the team. There were times I’d finish second and think that was a bad day but you have to enjoy every moment. It’s been such an amazing season but intense for sure, especially the last quarter has been really intense, Raul has been so fast, I’ve made a few mistakes and he has too, but consistency was key in the end and the days when I just couldn’t win or he won, it was just about finishing and getting the points I could. Ultimately that’s what got us over the line.

“With the first race I had a pretty good first lap, after that incident at Turn 2 I got though on the inside and ended up with the front guys and I thought that would be a good opportunity to go with those guys and break up the group and have a good consistent race, then with the Red Flag everything stopped. I made a good start in both, the second wasn’t as good on the first lap and for the first few laps I was just hanging in there and going with the guys but it was a bit scary cause I saw there was a bit of commotion, guys were passing, Raul was going for it and I thought ‘I’m not going to put myself in the middle there, I’m going to hang back.’ Then I came under fire from the guys behind and had to pull my finger out a little bit and break up the group a bit.”

“There have been so many hard years, decent success this year and even last year, I really kind of changed my chip last year and everything started to go a bit better.” Said Remy.

“I had to push a bit harder to get away from Tetsu, he was going crazy and my teammate in the past, I know how he rides! Just tried to break up the group a bit and finish the race in a respectable position and safely. Managed to do that, keep my nerves and for sure it was a lot of pressure but I managed to bring it home.”

“It hasn’t really sunk in yet to be honest. There have been so many hard years, decent success this year and even last year, I really kind of changed my chip last year and everything started to go a bit better. I didn’t have the most podiums in the world but managed to get my mind under control, everything was falling into place and I was trying to keep positive about everything. From 2015 to even 2019 they were really, really tough years for me and like I said, there were points in my career I honestly believed that was it, there was no more and that was the end of the road. Especially after injury for sure, fighting through that was incredibly difficult.”

Remy’s Grand Prix History

  • First Grand Prix: Misano 2014, Moto3
  • First pole position: Assen 2019, Moto2
  • First podium: Argentina 2019, Moto2
  • First victory: Portugal 2020, Moto2
  • Grands Prix: 113 (92 in Moto2)
  • Victories: 5 (5 in Moto2)
  • Podiums: 16 (16 in Moto2)
  • Pole positions: 6 (6 in Moto2)
  • Fastest laps: 5 (5 in Moto2)
  • World Championships: Moto2 (2021)

World Championship career:

  • 2014: Moto3™ World Championship – 32nd, Kalex/Kalex KTM, 3 races, 1 point
  • 2015: Moto3™ World Championship – 30th, Mahindra, 18 races, 6 points
  • 2016: Moto2™ World Championship – 26th, Kalex, 12 races, 8 points
  • 2017: Moto2™ World Championship – 21st, Tech3, 17 races, 23 points
  • 2018: Moto2™ World Championship – 19th, Tech3, 15 races, 40 points
  • 2019: Moto2™ World Championship – 15th, Kalex, 18 races, 77 points
  • 2020: Moto2™ World Championship – 6th, Kalex, 13 races, 135 points
  • 2021: Moto2™ World Championship – 1st, Kalex, 18 races, 311 points

Rider Tips: Wet Weather Track Riding

By
PB
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0

The past does not equal the future, just because you are not good at something, it does not have to stay the same. Take Anthony West for example. Ant’s first wet track session was far from successful; I can still remember footage of Ant on TV sliding through the mud at Phillip island!

Wet riding can be a tough skill to master, but its a chance to show off true talent, regardless of how quick your bike is.

However he worked on his weakness so well that these days if there is rain the lad is considered the master. Tony Hatton was also exceptional in the rain, so what skills do Anthony and Tony share, given that both these riders are generations apart? The one constant is that both Tony and Anthony have enjoyed the benefit of dirt track racing. Dirt track racing teaches you the feel for grip; the trick to road racing is to be able to ride on the edge and to be able to ride as if you are out of control but staying in control.

Check out our other riding training articles here…

Wet weather riding requires a brilliant system of control, smooth efficient riding style, knowledge of body English skills, what the bike is doing is just paramount, heck if you are untidy, lack discipline and can’t find the same line two laps in a row in the dry, then you are in for a rude shock come your first wet weather session.

“If you are untidy, lack discipline and can’t find the same line two laps in a row in the dry, then you are in for a rude shock come your first wet weather session.”

So what makes your wet weather race or track day successful? The answer is a good plan! This includes bike set up, personal riding equipment, rider technique, mental focus, race start and race plan, and the ability to shift and plan ahead in changing conditions with a cool head is paramount! Slow and steady will always win the race. 

Concentration is and should be heightened in the wet, however in a relaxed state of mind by planning ahead, scanning the track for puddles, camber, humps and bumps.

 The sensation and intensity that riding in the wet offers is awesome, very satisfying, if you don’t feel this way work on it!

Remember the job is to be the first bike and rider over then line on the last lap. Trust your plan, let it work and you could be crossing the line first like a top rider with ease.

BIKE SET-UP
Back off the springs and damping without to create a softer suspension setting allows the rider more feel for grip, obviously the rain affects our grip level. We can afford to make the bike softer as we are not going to run the cornering forces or ride the motorcycle the same as we do in the dry, sacrificing the stiffness that offers a more precise ride for grip in a sense. If you have a steering damper get rid of it or at least turn it off or to the lightest settings, remember a steering damper will take the sensitivity and feel of the bike away.

Incorrect tyres will lead to spending way too much time on your backside! In the rain it is so important to have the best rubber available and a spare set of wheels fitted up with some nice new wets is a must. Trying to get a motorcycle around a wet track on the latest dry weather sports tyre is going to be a real test of your skills and can I say you will need also a lot of luck to stay on board. So invest in a set of wheels so you can have the best set of wets available, it’s no good turning up to a gunfight with a knife! 

Tyre pressures are also critical, the ability to be able to drain water form the tyre and cut a path through the water creating a good contact patch and grip is all part of the tyre performance while out in the wet. 

Modern bikes will offer a “rain” engine map which often cuts the power and increases the traction control.

If you have an adjustable fuel map and or ignition map you may even consider making adjustment of how the power to the rear wheel is being delivered, getting power to the ground without wheelspin is what we are looking for in the wet, also using the throttle to gain grip in the front of the bike to help the motorcycle turn is very important, without a nice throttle response, riding a bike in the wet is really difficult in acceleration and turning.

Making sure the chain is adjusted is critical, ensuring you have exact throttle response to the rear wheel, not only does the throttle accelerate and turn bike it also can stop or slow bike in the rain that can create a range of issues and I am not just talking about power slides but also engine brake slides.

Go and invest in some anti fog treatment for your lid, clearing your visor is the last thing you want to think about while riding in the rain.

GEAR
I can still remember John Koncinski, a sponsored Honda rider at Honda’s home track event, the prestigious Suzuki 8 Hour race. John’s helmet would not demist properly and it lost him the race. Helmets need to be able to vent and deal with anti fogging, plenty of venting and a visor that seals well is essential, especially when you are riding in a deluge. Clean your visor with Mr Sheen or a cleaner that has a silicone content…

A wet weather suit will protect you from the elements as well as look after your leathers, ensure that the suit does not interfere with your movement. This restriction will affect how you control your bike.

Keep an eye on the weather app to see when and where the rain will be, the radar will be a few steps ahead of you so you can begin preparing…

Your equipment must be functional and is a large part of whether you do the job well or just get the job done. Concentration skills and extra attention time available to you enables you to see and take advantage of opportunities that the opposition may not have, all because they are not prepared.

THE TRACK
The advantage of a good track walk in the morning and after every day’s ride especially if it’s wet is huge. The rain drainage and the natural terrain around the circuit will have a big impact on what happens during a heavy deluge of rain.

Go for a walk around the track in the morning, see where there may be some puddles or slippery bits…

Understanding the track and where it is going, the type of turns, humps, bumps, negative and positive cambers, drainage and possible problems that will create issues like puddles forming on clipping points, can all be noted.

TECHNIQUE
So we now have the bike set-up, the correct riding equipment, knowledge of the track and where we can expect the puddles and rivers etc to come from. We can work on our body English now.

A short quick tip is to get off the brakes earlier, don’t be so heavy with trail braking and get onto the throttle a little earlier a lot like dirt track riding.

The important skill of using your posture cannot be underestimated. The bike’s lean angle and ride in the wet is so much different to a dry ride. The lean angles and grip differ, the aggression of acceleration, the braking points and overlapping of the brakes are all affected, making what we do on the bike very different. Use your body English to stand the motorcycle up and gain maximum drive out of the turns reducing wheel slip, using your legs and top half of your body.

Weighing your feet to help with sudden shifts and slides is essential, pinning your knees to the tank while heavy braking in a straight line. We are really trying to relax our arms and hands so we can feel any feedback from the handlebars, the bar movements are giving us the feel of loss and gain of grip, a relaxed grip also allows us to use the throttle as required to make the motorcycle steer while also assisting in controlling slides.

Remember hard braking is all done in a straight line and reducing trail braking is important.

Being able to effectively rev back during down changes is so important, the use of a small amount of clutch slip is just as important; we need rear stabilising and engine braking and don’t need engine lock ups from abrupt gear changes.

RACE STARTS
Remember on the startline, try to keep your head from sitting over the hot engine, otherwise you may be affected by steam fogging the visor. A minor burnout to get some heat into the rear tyre could save on wheel spin off the line if it is allowed.

Patience is a beautiful thing; maybe all you have to do to is let the tribe come unstuck while you settle down.

Getting ahead of the group or the front is pretty important especially if it is heavy in rain in an attempt to minimise the effects of spray especially if there is a huge group of riders the spray of other bikes can restrict vision so badly that you can barely see what is happening in front of you, making your job very dangerous.

Never position yourself on the outside of another competitor or a rider, your success will be in their hands, if the inside rider throws it away (which is a good possibility in the rain) he/she will be taking you with them. 

“In the wet, I generally found that I picked the throttle up quite early just to keep the bike loaded around the turn and balanced because any sudden movement can leave you sliding up the road on your arse or head.” -Andrew Pitt.

RACE PLAN
Planning an overtake can be difficult on a drying track as you are required to get of the fast line to pass the opposition, work out your strengths and plan a clean over take A drying line will have changing grip level which comes with some complications especially if you are on wets you may have to go searching for puddles to cool west so you can survive the race, as the track dries be aware of wet patches, where will I stand up the bike…

A drying track means developing more speed and slightly different lines every time we are getting around the track, ensure you are used to picking brake off points and scanning into turns is essential, keep looking for the drying line.

 

Product Review: WR250R Rider Sag Setting, Motool Slacker

By
PB
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0

We’ve been using the Motool Slacker Auto Zero sag measurement tool from Pro Accessories for years now, setting up our own bikes and press bikes. The most recent bike we used it on was Mike’s WR250R, which is a 2020 model with stock suspension used as a commuter and a weekend off-roader. 

Mike’s 2020 WR250R was set completely stock standard. After running in and getting more serious with a tyre and gearing upgrade, it was time to set the suspension up. Mike’s next step will be a heavier rear spring.

The great thing about the Slacker is that it makes a job that previously required two people easily achieved on your own as it does all of the measuring and calculations for you accurately and quickly.

Normally, when adjusting sag, you first need to measure full extension, then static distance from the floor, then subtract that from the extended distance to give static sag. You then need to repeat that sitting on the bike in the riding position, repeating it twice for both ends. To do that, you need a helper to do the measuring while you handle the bike. With the Slacker, you can do it all alone very quickly.

Front rider sag of 76mm. We can’t change this externally but it is fine anyway. The forks don’t always settle the same.

Once you have the Slacker string connected, hook up the handlebar mounted display so you can easily do the job on your own. This simply plugs into the Slacker with the lead provided and attaches to the handlebars via a velcro strap. Makes life a lot easier when trying to read the results.

The remote display has the same functions as the Slacker so everything can be controlled now from the handlebar. Lift on the bars and fully extend the forks, then zero the slacker.

The remote display allows the user to read sag measurement while seated on the bike. We set the rear to 30/100.

Once sorted, it is time to stand alongside the bike holding it upright. Holding the front brake, bounce the front-end up and down five times to loosen and seal stiction on the fork inner tube and to help the forks settle. Release the brake and give the forks one more bounce with no brakes.

You will now have a reading on the display showing the static sag (unloaded) of the front of the bike for your records, the WR was 49mm. Next, sit on the bike in your normal riding position. Again, bounce the forks up and down, then when they settle, you will have the sag amount displayed on the remote display. Repeat this a few times until you get a consistent reading. The WR was 79mm.

If your bike has preload adjustment, this is the point where you can repeat steps until the correct sag is achieved, either adding or removing spring preload. Sometimes compression damping adjustment can help to set sag as well as preload but you don’t want to be riding on compression rather than spring, so it is generally best to set spring sag with the comp and rebound backed completely off.

With the WR, we ended up with compression at 9/21clicks, rebound at 11/29 clicks and a sag with rider of 79mm. With no spring preload adjustment, we can’t do anything else but those numbers are fine for now as Mike is still a relatively new off road rider.

We set the rear rider sag to 100mm, which is pretty standard. Static was 30mm. Factory setting was 108mm/40mm.

Once you have set the front up, it is time to move the Slacker unit to the back of the bike. Fit another stick on hook somewhere in a straight line of travel above the rear axle, move the magnetised Slacker to the back axle and connect the string/cable. You can leave the remote display on the handlebar as the cable is very long, which is convenient. Kneeling alongside the right hand side of the bike, push up under the seat area to fully extend the rear suspension, or stand alongside it and lift the rear, then zero the Slacker using the buttons on either the main unit or the remote unit.

Now walk around to the left side, take the bike off the stand and bounce the rear up and down five times then let it settle. You will now have a static sag figure for your records. In this case, 40mm.

The main unit has a large magnet on the back so as long as your axle is steel, the Slacker will stick on. If not (Titanium for example), get a steel nut to fit during the job. There is also a Titanium fitment bracket available.

Sitting on the bike now, bounce the back up and down with your weight then sit in your usual spot. Try not to take any weight through your legs, which will be on the ground only for balance. If you are alone this will be the best you can do and will be fine, maybe rest an elbow on the wall to stay upright.

You will now have your rear rider sag figure, in this case for the WR, 108mm. We are aiming for 100mm. So we increase rear spring preload to 12mm (three turns on the collar). We do this one turn at a time, checking sags each time. Now the WR250R has 100mm rider sag at the rear and exactly 30mm static, which is spot on with 80kg Mike on it and he is the only person riding the bike. We also set the rear rebound to 8 clicks out and the rear compression to 8 clicks out.

100mm of rear rider sag was our goal and we eventually got it there after some messing around with the settings!

So using the Slacker is so easy compared the old fashioned mate with a tape measure way. You can quickly and easily do this by yourself and the entire process took us around 15-minutes start to finish.

The Slacker is easy to use, comes with a range of connections and is available for $199.95 RRP (Street kit an extra $39.95 RRP) in all good bike shops via the national distributor Pro Accessories, you can check out the Pro Accessories website here.

 

2022 FIM Grand Prix World Championship Provisional Entry Lists

By
PB
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0

Dorna and FIM have released the provisional entry list for the 2022 Moto3, Moto2 and MotoGP Championship. This is the first confirmed lists of 2022, check out all the new riders ahead of the 2022 season with two Aussies in the premier class!

Remy Gardner is off to the MotoGP premier season after winning the 2021 Moto2 Championship!

Moto3
The Moto3 championship sees a bunch of new riders entering the series, with CFMOTO looking to tackle the championship being the first Chinese manufacturer to race in MotoGP since the mid 2000s.

Moto2
The Moto2 field is fully of familiar faces from Moto3. With 2021 Moto3 Championship winner, Pedro Acosta riding for the Red Bull KTM Ajo team!

MotoGP
An exciting time for Australian racing fans as we get to see Jack Miller and Remy Gardner go head to head in the premier class. For the first time in over two decades, we see Valentino Rossi’s name missing from the entrance list, except VR46 will live on as a team with riders Marco Bezzecchi and Luca Marini!

While there may be some last minute changes, these are the 2022 MotoGP teams! We can wait to see them back on track next year, hopefully traveling back to Australia for the first time since 2019.

 

Classes Announced For The 2022 ProMX Championship

By
PB
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0

The permanent class structure for the ProMX Championship will remain unchanged, as the THOR MX1 Class will take centre stage across all 8 Rounds of the Championship, showcasing incredible domestic and international talent on 450cc machines to Television audiences and live race fans across the country.

The ProMX Management team say they are pleased to confirm both the Championship and Support classes for the 2022 Penrite ProMX Championship presented by AMX Superstores (ProMX).

The Pirelli MX2 Class will once again provide energetic and fast changing on track action as the young riders graduating to the professional ranks on 250cc four stroke machines fight for their chance at the big time on the national stage.

Check out the championship calendar here…

Maxxis MX3 also returns after unanimous praise from the riders, industry and fans alike. This new initiative by Motorcycling Australia (MA) and the ProMX Management team sees riders aged 14 and over as junior racers able to compete against up to 18 years old, with the goal of providing a pathway to the international stage for our Australian junior talent.

The ProMX was unfortunately cut short due to the COVID-19 pandemic last year.

In addition to the ProMX Championship classes, the fan favourite support classes will return for the 2022 Championship. MX Womens (MXW) will take to the stage at the opening round of the Championship at Wonthaggi in Victoria on March 27th to showcase the premier female racers competing at a senior level. MXW will also feature at Round 4 of the Championship at Gillman SA, on May 29th followed by the season finale at Coolum QLD on August 20th and 21st.

Building on the success of the ProMX debut for the Evo Cup in the 2021 Championship, the post classic machines will return along with the Pre 95 machines as a combined class to race at Coffs Harbour NSW, for Round 6 of the Championship. The combined classes will give both classic and post classic Motocross enthusiasts, fans and riders a trip down memory lane to the retro two and four strokes blasting across the confines of the Coffs Harbour track.

“The Championship finale at Coolum, QLD on August 20th and 21st will also play host to the Veterans Championship.”

The Championship finale at Coolum, QLD on August 20th and 21st will also play host to the Veterans Championship, showcasing retired national champions and passionate veteran racers who will face off on the grueling Coolum sand track over the course of the final weekend of the 2022 ProMX Championship.

The bLU cRU YZ 65 cup will return in 2022 for 2 Rounds, with an announcement coming soon on the tracks and further details the Junior under 12 future stars will feature in. Stay tuned for more exciting announcements over the coming weeks regarding the 2022 Penrite ProMX Championship presented by AMX Superstores.

 

The FIM MiniGP World Final Concludes The Season In Style

By
PB
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0
The FIM MiniGP offers a perfect stepping stone for young riders looking to start their racing career.
The FIM MiniGP offers a perfect stepping stone for young riders looking to start their racing career.

The 2021 FIM MiniGP World Final was an incredible conclusion to the first season of the FIM MiniGP World Series. Two races worth standards points and then the Super Final Race – worth double points – decided the Champion, with FIM MiniGP Spain Series rider Izan Rodriguez coming out on top after doing the triple.

Spain’s Pablo Olivares came second overall and took two podiums, with Italian Cristian Borrelli taking third overall after also finishing on the rostrum twice. The other podium finisher was FIM MiniGP Ireland Series rider Josh O’Brien, who took some spoils in Race 1.

RACE 1
After Qualifying Race that saw the top two move through, the first points on offer were decided. Rodriguez got the perfect start and the holeshot, but Olivares was close on the chase. They took a 1-2 for Spain, with O’Brien impressing to convert fourth on the grid to a podium finish in P3.

“Rodriguez got the perfect start and the holeshot, but Olivares was close on the chase.”

RACE 2
With one more rider on the grid, the winner of Qualifying Race 2, there were 25 more points up for grabs and Rodriguez once again took an early lead. He had Olivares as his shadow again too, with the two eventually crossing the line split by almost nothing in another 1-2.

This time around, the close fight for the podium was won by Cristian Borrelli as the FIM MiniGP Italy Series rider made an impressive step forward.

SUPER FINAL RACE
With 50 points on the line it all came down to the final race, and this time around Rodriguez didn’t get the holeshot – closest rival Olivares did. But it didn’t take too long for the points leader to strike back and attack, taking over in the lead once again.

Olivares then got embroiled in the group fight behind, and Rodriguez pulled away to take his third win of the day and impress. Borrelli and compatriot Edoardo Liguori came out on top in the group scrap, taking second and third respectively.

“Olivares then got embroiled in the group fight behind, and Rodriguez pulled away to take his third win of the day.”

Rodriguez took a clean sweep to become the inaugural Champion and Olivares two second places and a fourth, so it’s a Spain 1-2. Borrelli’s progress throughout the day was rewarded with third overall, just one points off Olivares.

Your FIM Euro MiniGP 2021 top three! An exciting future for the sport as it heads to Australia next year…

Liguori takes fourth in the standings after the first MiniGP World Final, with Ireland Series star O’Brien continuing his pace in Race 2 and the Super Final to lock out P5 for 2021. You can find all the results from the weekend here…

 

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