Most 250s were boring, with the exception of the Kawasaki KR-1S, Aprilia RS250 and Suzuki RGV250, but you needed a full licence to ride those. Roll on a few decades later and the choice for what is an entry-level motorcycle is phenomenal. In a range of capacities, both old and new, new riders can choose from adventure bikes, maxi scooters, cruisers, nakedbikes, tourers, sports-tourers, motards, trailbikes and, of course, sportsbikes. Enter the Aprilia RS457.

Check out our LAMS motorcycle reviews here...

Looking very much like the entry-level, race-replica version of the marque RSV4 superbike, the new RS 457 isn’t just a lookalike sportsbike for those that don’t have the experience or perhaps money to afford the production road racer. Just as with the bigger capacity bikes in the range, Aprilia has put a concerted effort into making this new twin-cylinder sportsbike go as good as it looks.

Fresh off the back of the launch of the RS 660 (read our RS 660 review here), Aprilia has bookended their sportsbike range with the parallel-twin, 457cc RS 457. Every much looking like the racer-inspired small capacity machine, this isn’t of the ilk of the two-stroke RS 250 – an out-and-out production racer, but more so an evolution of the timid four-stroke RS4 125. But unlike the RS4, Aprilia hasn’t left one aspect of this machine’s performance unfettered.

“The engine is a 270-degree firing order, 457cc parallel-twin that puts out 35kW and 44Nm – with most of that delivered by 3000rpm”…

This is a ground-up, new machine for Aprilia. The engine is a 270-degree firing order, 457cc parallel-twin that puts out 35kW and 44Nm – with most of that delivered by 3000rpm with the design centring around minimising friction (see technical breakout) across various engine components and gearbox. The architecture of the cylinder-heads isn’t too far removed from the RSV4 Aprilia claims, and at a glance it certainly looks that way.

Although the twin revs out to a 10,500rpm redline, most of the torque is at hand low in the rev range. On the road, it gets away quickly from a standstill with no need for riding the clutch to get the revs up. It pulls through the rev range strongly and the good spread through the six-speed gearbox won’t see you frantically working through the ’box. Out on the open road, the strong bottom-end power means the tight and twisty stuff is fun and at freeway speeds you don’t feel like you are wringing its neck.

We also rode at Beckley Park International Raceway – a neat little go-kart track just behind the clubhouse turn of the Geelong Horse Racing venue. With a load of first and second gear corners, with a hard-braking first-gear hairpin, we got a great opportunity to ask the most of the 457’s engine. Just as it was on the road, the power delivery is user friendly with loads of strong low rpm torque the highlight of the package.

Here at the track is where the host of electronic goodies, led by the mode selectors, stood out. The three different riding modes – Eco, Sport and Rain – give a pronounced difference in power delivery via the ride-by-wire throttle. The ABS has two settings – both wheels, or front only – allowing riders who can to slide the rear end into corners. While a bi-directional quickshifter is optional, most riders won’t need one.

Traction control is standard fitment on the RS 457 and while I never used it on the track, I got to feel it work doing u-turns on a dirty country back road for the obligatory bike launch photoshoot. Being part of a Bosch system – just like the ABS – it’ll no doubt work well on wet and slippery roads. Like the riding modes, the traction control is switched simply from the switchgear and can be done on the fly. What mode and settings you have is displayed on the big 5-inch TFT dash that looks like it’s straight off a superbike.

You can tell a lot of refinement has gone into getting the handling characteristics of the RS 457 just right. With preload adjustment at both ends, rolling on 110 and 150-section tyres (just like the RS250 did) and with rake, trail and wheelbase dimensions similar to the rest of the class, the twin-spar aluminium alloy frame is the biggest point of difference. The marketing blurb says Aprilia has used its experience gained through this chassis design in racing to get the RS 457 handling as it is, and it’s hard to argue with.

On the track the RS 457 is nimble, compliant and controlled under hard cornering and braking. Acceleration doesn’t challenge the relatively basic suspension’s compliance nor the standard fitment rubber. On the more bumpy and unpredictable conditions on the road, the suspension is just as good, and light and precise handling did not give a hint of instability, with a more comprehensive ride needed to make that a given.

The riding position is spacious. Riders of all shapes and sizes – especially those over six-foot – found it roomy in the saddle, the reach to the handlebars not cramped and the footpegs not crampingly high nor so low that they cause ground clearance issues. Pillion comfort may not be as welcoming, but the reach from the back saddle to the footpegs is adult-sized. All in all, the ride triangle is a balance of comfort and sportiness and one that best suits the intended usage of most RS 457s.

Check out our other Aprilia reviews and content here…

The brakes look every part like top of the line sportsbike kit. A radial mounted four-piston caliper up front looks MotoGP and while it doesn’t say Brembo, it is made by their small motorcycle division ByBre – By Brembo. Braking power is exceptional both front and rear and mated with the switchable Bosch ABS a safe and high-performing package on the road and the track. There is span adjustment available on the brake lever, but not on the clutch which is cable-actuated and light as a feather.

The racer-inspired styling cues don’t stop with the radial-mounted front brake either. The exhaust exiting the bellypan, sleek top triple-clamp design, indicators integrated within the headlight unit, a double-skin look to the fairing, GP-inspired aerodynamic features and the tiny rear tail unit all mimic the big boy racer as it was intended to. Throw in an extra $400 for the MotoGP-inspired Replica colour scheme and you really have a true race replica.

Conclusion

Best thing of all about the RS 457 is that this new machine isn’t all show and no go. With a concerted effort on creating a learner-legal machine that muscles its way to the top of the new entry-level sportsbike pack with the most power and best power-to-weight ratio allowed, Aprilia has also built a machine with the handling and engine performance that will keep experienced riders coming back for more. Check out the Rs 457 in your local Aprilia shop now, and test ride one while you are there…

2024 Aprilia RS457 Tech Talk
Engine

The Aprilia RS 457 is powered by two-cylinder, 457cc, 270-degree, liquid-cooled engine with Double Overhead Camshafts (DOHC) with four valves per cylinder. The engine, that shares a lot of its architecture with the RSV4 superbike, has 35kW of peak power at 9400rpm and peak torque of 44Nm at 6700rpm with 82 per cent of that figure on hand from 3000rpm. Teamed with a wet weight of 175kg, the power-to-weight ratio of the RS is hard to beat in the LAMS class.

Unlike the mid-sized RS 660, the 457 engine differs in that a coolant by-pass circuit and blow-by circuit are fully integrated into the engine, with no external piping like the bigger machine has. The gearbox features roller cages like the V4 engines, instead of bushings, to reduce friction while the gearbox lubrication system is integrated into the shifting dropout shafts.

Reciprocating friction is reduced in the engine by using a cylinder offset 6.5mm from the crankshaft, roller bearings instead of bushings for the water pump and countershaft, and piston pins and timing cups with DLC coating. Fracture-split conrods are used with circular bushings and a servo clutch reduces effort at the lever along with a slipper function.

Big service intervals are another attractive point on the twin-cylinder engine while as a function of Euro 5 + emissions compliance, the RSV457 engine shuts down one cylinder on deceleration to both conserve fuel and reduce noise somewhat.

Chassis

The new twin-cylinder RS 457 engine is mounted in a dual-beam cast aluminium frame with the crankcase functioning as a load-bearing element, similarly to the way it is on the RS 660. Up front, the 41mm upside-down forks are preload adjustable, with 120mm of travel, while at the rear, the monoshock is adjustable for preload and has 130mm of travel. The swingarm is made in steel.

The braking system is made by ByBre – a Brembo brand specifically dedicated to small-to-medium displacement motorcycles and scooters – and features a 320mm front disc with a radial-mounted four-piston caliper at the front and a single piston caliper on 220mm disc at the rear. The braking system is aided by a two-channel ABS system with switchable modes – for either both wheels or front wheel only. The 17-inch aluminium alloy wheels mount to a 110/70 front and 150/60 rear tyres.

Electronics

The RS 457 is bustling with a range of tech goodies you don’t see standard on bikes in this class. The LED headlight echoes cues of the Aprilia sportsbike family while the front indicators are integrated into the headlight’s light signature. The dashboard is no less than a 5.0-inch TFT (Thin Film Transistor) colour instrument cluster, while the switchgear on the handlebars are elegantly backlit.

The Ride-by-Wire throttle system – which Aprilia was the first to introduce both in MotoGP and on production motorcycles – manages the engine with three riding modes that intervene on power, torque and traction control. They are adjustable to three levels on the fly – Eco, Sport and Rain – a can also be disabled. A bi-directional quickshifter is also available as an accessory. The Bosch ABS system has two settings: ABS on both wheels for road usage and ABS front on and rear off, suggested for racetrack use only. Turning off the rear ABS is done by a long press of the riding mode button only when the bike is stationary. Smartphone connectivity (Aprilia MIA) and navigation are also available

APRILIA RS 457 GENUINE ACCESSORIES

A host of genuine accessories are available for the RS457 ranging from bike covers and USB sockets through to racing brake pads and tyre pressure monitoring system. For more information visit www.aprilia.com/au.

Passenger seat cover                                                              $155.85
Adjustable front brake lever                                               $242.20
Adjustable clutch lever                                                          $246.75
Rear brake Lever                                                                           $305.90
Gear lever                                                                                           $248.50
Brake lever protection                                                             $473.40
Aluminium plate holder                                                         $389
USB charging socket                                                                $38.50
Racing brake pads                                                                      $333.25
Rider footpegs                                                                                $364.15
Front axle protector                                                                   $138.50
Helmet lock                                                                                      $71
TPMS (Tyre Pressure Monitoring System)  RS457     $456
High windscreen                                                                          $125
Thermoformed side cases (with holders)              $1154.15
Tank bag                                                                                               $482.50
Lower rider comfort seat                                                      $275
Standard comfort seat                                                           $298
Passenger comfort handle                                                  $128
Outdoor bike cover                                                                    $267.70
Indoor bike cover                                                                         $458.20
Electronic anti-theft                                                                  $287.75
Electronic anti-theft assembly system                    $215.40
MIA device                                                                                         $208.20
MIA device assembly system                                           $73.75
Wheel stickers                                                                               $38.30
Side tank protection stickers                                            $163.85
Central tank protection stickers                                    $66.90
Bi-directional quickshifter                                                  $441.20

2024 Aprilia RS 457 Specifications

Aprilia.com

Price: $12,540 (Replica: $12,940) rideaway
Warranty: Two-years unlimited km
Colours: Prismatic Dark, Opalescent Light and Racing Stripes
Claimed Power: 35kW@9400rpm
Claimed Torque: 44Nm@6700rpm
Kerb Weight: 175kg
Fuel capacity: 13L
Fuel Consumption Claimed: N/A
Fuel Consumption (measured): N/A

Engine: Liquid-cooled, 270-degree parallel twin-cylinder, four-stroke engine with four valves per cylinder, 10.5:1 compression ratio, 69mm x 61.1mm bore x stroke, 457cc, 26mm EFI with Ride-By-Wire throttle Gearbox: Six speed, constant mesh Clutch: Multiplate in oil bath with slipper system

Chassis: Frame: Dual beam cast-aluminium frame
Rake: 24 degrees Trail: 102.4mm
Suspension: 41mm upside-down fork, preload adjustable, 120mm travel (f) steel swingarm, monoshock with adjustable preload, 130mm travel (r) Brakes: 320mm disc, four-piston radial-mounted By-Bre caliper (f), 220mm disc, single-piston By-Bre floating caliper (r) Wheels & Tyres: Aluminium-alloy wheels 3.0 x 17-inch (f) 4.5 x 17-inch (r), Tyres 110/70ZR17 (f) 150/60ZR17 (r)

Dimensions:
Seat height: 800mm
Ground clearance: N/A
Overall width: 760mm
Overall Length: 1983mm
Overall height: 1162mm
Wheelbase: 1349mm

Instruments & Electronics: LED headlight assembly. Engine maps (AEM), dual-channel ABS with anti roll-over system (two maps), traction control (ATC), three riding modes. 5-inch TFT instrument panel. Backlit handlebar controls.

2025 Aprilia RS 457 Gallery

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With a whopping 215hp and 90ft-lbs on tap, powering only 146kg dry, combined with an electronics system that would be at home in MotoGP and the same level of suspension and brakes as World SBK, this is one serious track bike. In fact, with a carbon-fibre frame and carbon-fibre wheels the HP4 chassis is higher-spec than a factory World SBK racer.

The frame weighs only 7.8kg and is the very first all carbon-fibre production frame in the world. The Ohlins FGR 300 forks and TTX 36 GP shock are identical to those used in MotoGP and World SBK while the milled and sheet aluminium swingarm is directly from SBK. The incredible brakes are similarly high-spec, being Brembo GP4 PR monoblock calipers, are World SBK specification as are the 6.75mm thick 320mm T-type racing steel brake rotors.

The 215hp@13900rpm engine revs to a staggering 14500rpm and makes 90ft-lbs@10000rpm. It has a close-ratio gearbox, reverse quickshifter and is World SBK and World Endurance specification.

The electronics are mind blowing with a 2D logger and 2D dash. Wheelie control, traction control, engine braking control, pit lane limiter, launch control and lots more. Of course, being a track bike there is no ABS system. The bodywork is all carbon-fibre and the bikes, including the engine, are all hand assembled.

For more info on the amazing $114,500* BMW HP4 Race visit this BMW link here.

BMW HP4 Race Specifications

bmw-motorrad.com.au

Price: $114,500* RRP (*NSW delivery).
Claimed power: 158kW[215hp]@13900rpm
Claimed torque: 120Nm[90ft-lbs]@10000rpm
Dry weight: 146kg
Fuel capacity: 17.5L

Engine: Liquid-cooled inline four-cylinder four-stroke, DOHC, individual rocker arm valve actuation, 16-valve, 33.5IN/27.2EX, 48mm throttle-valves, 999cc
Gearbox: Six-speed, close-ratio EVO gearbox (Primary: 1.652, 1st: 2.388, 2nd: 2.000, 3rd: 1.727, 4th: 1.545, 5th: 1.400, 6th: 1.291 Final 2.647. Two-way quickshifter.
Clutch: Wet multi-plate, cable actuation

Frame: Carbon-fibre monocoque RTM frame with adjustable steering head angle and swingarm pivot point, load bearing engine. Aluminium swingarm, 604mm L, centre of rotation -3mm compared to K46MR3 (adj + – 4mm, + – 3mm, + – 2mm, + – 1mm). Rearsets eight-way adjustable, seat height three-way adjustable. Adjustable quick-change racing handlebars.
Suspension: Ohlins FGR 300 forks, SD052 Ohlins steering damper, quick wheel change system, 130mm travel. Ohlins TTX36 GP shock, adjustable strut height and tension strut length, 120mm travel.
Brakes: Brembo GP4-PR monoblock 320 x 6.75mm our-piston calipers, T-floating racing brake 320mm rotors, RCS19 x 18 radial-pull master-cylinder. Brembo four-piston World SBK rear caliper, 220mm rotor, Titanium pistons.
Wheels & Tyres: 3.50 x 17in (f), 6.00 x 17in (r), carbon-fibre wheels, 120/70-17 Pirelli Diablo SC2 slick / 200/60-17 Pirelli Diablo SC2 slick.

Wheelbase: 1440mm
Rake: 65.5° adjustable +or- .5º, Offset: 30mm (adj 26, 28, 32mm) Trail: 102.5mm (adj 95 – 112mm)
Seat height: Adjustable

Electronics: 15-level DTC, 15-level EBC multi-adjustable for multiple parameters. 2D dashboard, 2D datalogger, lap timer, GPS, recorder. Pit lane limiter, launch control, HP4 Race Shift Assist, World SBK buttons.

The post Video Review: BMW HP4 Race appeared first on Racing, Riding, Motorcycle Reviews, Race bikes, Tech Tips, Rider Training....

During 2009 I was trying to transform my R6 from a basically stock bike with worn out suspension, into a sharp handling, fast stopping track machine. The aim of the project was to get everything as cheap as possible and do most of the work myself to save money. I’m lucky that I am mechanically minded and have friends in the business that I can scrounge parts off. To be honest, I may have pushed the bounds of friendship with Jeff somewhat in my quest to get the job done but that was never a reason to give up and pay full retail!

Check out our other track bike articles here…

So what’s been done so far? Well the most important part for me was the suspension. To be blunt, it was shagged and ripped up back tyres like they were going out of fashion! Next on the list were the brakes. The standard ones are OK but for the track, more stopping power is nice. Thankfully, Hel supplied trick looking braided lines and I replaced the pads with EBC race items. Another problem with my R6 is the fact that tank slappers are all too common and a bit scary. With this in mind I raided Jeff’s shed and found a nearly new steering damper. Unfortunately, it had no fitting brackets so I had to manufacture some to get the damper working. I gave the bike a thorough service and check – a sensible move before risking my life at 250km/h. Next I fitted a race airfilter and replaced the battery. Lastly, I slapped on a bit of black paint and fitted some stickers. I took the bike to my mate Anton to fit some race rubber and that was just about it.

So I arrive at Eastern Creek all excited about the first ride on my shiny black track bike. As I head out on the track and tip the bike into turn two, I can feel the difference in the suspension immediately. The bike now feels so light and easy to steer as I flip-flop from turn two to three. Unfortunately, I can also tell instantly that I’ve dropped a bollock by fitting the race airfilter and not re-jetting the carbs. The R6 now has an obvious fuelling problem and must be getting too much air in the carburettors. So I get out the gaffer tape and try to restrict some of the airflow. This works a bit but the bike is still far from perfect and dozy-me had forgotten to bring along the standard filter!

Anyway, I decide to make the best of it and have some fun – and fun is what this bike is all about. Instead of being worried about dropping my road bike, for less than four grand, I thrashed the R6 around the track without a care in the world.

The brakes are now so powerful that I have to change my braking points. Allowing for later braking should speed me up but instead it just scares me more! I can’t get over how much better the bike handles. With the steering damper fitted, gone are the frightening shakes. As I return to the pits and jump off the bike, proof of the bike’s improved suspension is apparent when I check out the back tyre. Instead of being torn to bits, it’s now as smooth as a baby’s bum all the way to the edge.

So was all the work worth it? Hell yes! Even with the bike running rough I can still manage a reasonable lap. Once I get the fuelling right the bike will be a ripper. I’m not sure if my lap time will improve. I may just have to resign myself to the fact that I’ll always run around in the low 1:50s. However, one thing is for sure, I’ll certainly be less worn out at the end of the day after riding a bike that’s set-up correctly. 

All up the 1999 R6 has proven to be a great choice and with a bit of scrounging and begging I’ve only spent $1800 on it and $1000 of that was in the one area where I didn’t scrimp – suspension. 

Parts Used

• Hel brake lines, EBC HH pads
• Ex-race tyres, original chain and sprockets
• Home spray job
• Zenodamper shock
• Zenodamper forks
• Steering damper

Cost: $3500 plus $1800 in race set-up and parts

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As a qualified flag marshal and a race fan, Todd had always wanted to get out on the track himself so decided to build a track hack just for that purpose. Something that was affordable and would not break the bank too much if it was thrown down the road…

Check out our other track bike tests here…

After deciding on a big bore Japanese sportsbike, Todd began the search. After many weeks he eventually found this amazing Fireblade on eBay and better still, it turned out to be only 15km from his house. A call was made and a deal struck and later that night Todd had a crashed CBR929 in the shed. Well, in a mate’s shed anyway.

The bike was previously a track day bike and the owner parted company with the bike. It had extensive gravel rash and the tank was dented. It was also dirty and in need of a service and new tyres. A quick visit to eBay saw Todd score a set of Castrol race fairings that were delivered from China for $500. 

“I then filled the dent and had a local smash repair joint respray the tank white, then went over the bike with spanners and checked every nut and bolt, changed the oil and filter, and basically gave it a detail and tidy up”.

“I then got a red Pro Bolt kit from eBay and a screen from the UK. The only problem I encountered on the build was the fairing kit mounting holes were too small for the grommets. But all up I only spent about four weeks on the bike”.

Todd purchased every single part online, “There are some great bargains to be had,” says Todd, “Don’t be turned off by cosmetic damage just add a fairing kit to your budget and any other minor scratches won’t affect your lap times!”

New parts used on the bike include the fairing kit, Pro Bolt kit, screen, oil and filter plus tyres are on the way. Used parts were donor bar ends from the owner’s 2012 CBR, heel plates and a chain guard. 

“I couldn’t be happier. The entire bike cost less than a repair if I drop my new Blade. I spent just on $3000 and I took it to Western Sydney Dragway for a shakedown ride and ran 10.937@213km/h so that is great. Next up I want to change the gearing, fit new tyres and hit the track”.

The Build

• 2001 Honda CBR929RR Fireblade
• PURCHASE COST: $2000
• INITIAL BUDGET: $4000
• TOTAL SPENT: $3000
• PURCHASED FROM: eBay

Parts List

• $500 Hong Kong eBay special pre painted fairings
• Fresh oil, filter and brake fluid
• Detail and safety check
• New screen
• Engine bolt kit
  

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The post Track Bikes: Honda CBR929 Fireblade Budget Track Tool appeared first on Racing, Riding, Motorcycle Reviews, Race bikes, Tech Tips, Rider Training....

If you have supplemented your road riding with some ride days, are running in the fast group and now find you spend most of your day at the local track being held up by slower traffic, then the logical progression is to have a go at racing. The good news is that if you own a late model sports bike or nakedbike, then you already have a great base from which to build a competitive racing motorcycle by carrying out some reasonably straightforward improvements.

This guide is designed to take you through the modifications required to convert your existing road bike into a race specification machine, and covers a range of performance levels to suit your budget and skill level.

The bike you start with is really going to determine how important engine modifications are to your lap times. If you are running a late model 1000cc bike and you’re starting out in racing, then you can’t fully utilise the 162bhp your stock bike has. 

If you are running a 600cc machine then more horsepower could definitely give you an advantage, especially in passing down the straights during a race, so your requirements may be different. I’m going to break this down into a number of stages, and if you’re inexperienced then I really recommend keeping engine mods to a minimum and spending your dollars on suspension setup, weight reduction and practice, as that is where you will find the biggest improvements.

Stage 1 – Bolt-ons
The obvious starting point for engine upgrades is to use off the shelf parts that do not require the engine to be rebuilt. As a start point a slip-on muffler ($250-$800) or Stainless Steel full race exhaust system ($1200-$2000), race airfilter ($80), plus a Power Commander and map from a reputable dyno room ($800-$1200), will get you around 170HP at the back wheel on a late model Japanese 1000 and a good clean torque curve right through your acceleration zone. This is really all you need to do to your engine until you are running top 15 in one of the major Australian Championship classes.

Stage 2 – Light internal mods
If pulling your engine out and taking the head off is not too scary for you, then a relatively simple and cheap mod is to install a thinner head gasket ($200), which will give a noticeable improvement in torque and throttle response, and brings your power up to around the 175HP mark. At this stage I’d also look to add a quickshifter ($350-$600), which not only improves acceleration but also allows you to “spend” valuable concentration in other areas.

Stage 3 – Getting serious
If a 200hp monster is what you really must have, then serious engine work is the only way to get there. This is going to require camshafts ($1200-$1800), a CNC ported head and multi angle valve job ($1500-$2000) plus possibly machining of the pistons, blueprinting and labour ($1500-$2500). Alternatively you can drop your motor off to someone like PTR Racing or Motologic and just ask them to build you an ASBK spec motor ($6,000-$8,000).

Suspension
This is an area where correct setup is critical to lap times no matter what type of machine you ride. If there is one area of bike preparation on which to focus, this is it. Poorly set up suspension will not only be the biggest barrier to improving your lap speed, it could also land you in hospital and see your pride and joy being carted home in a wheelbarrow.

Again there are a range of options here and buying the most expensive Ohlins WSBK kit is not necessarily the answer. Installation of the correct springs for your weight and an after market valve kit into your stock forks and shock ($800-$1200) by a reputable specialist such as Terry Hay’s Shock Treatment will make an enormous difference to lap times and allow you to find your limit more safely. You should also add an aftermarket steering damper ($250-$500) to keep those headshake issues under control as your new motor has the front wheel pawing at the sky. 

Next in line on the suspension upgrade list are race specification fork cartridges from Race Tech ($1200) or Ohlins ($1800), plus an aftermarket Shock ($1400-$2000), which will provide further improvement. If you want to get really serious then a set of SBK specification gas charged Ohlins or K-Tech front forks ($13,000-$16,000) will certainly make you the envy of all in pit lane, just don’t forget the factory technician to service and set them up.

Brakes
Most of the national classes in Australian racing are quite restrictive in terms of the modifications you can make to the braking system. Modern sports bikes do have extremely efficient brakes as standard, however they are set up more for road use than the repeated high load requirements found during a circuit race.

You can achieve significant improvements and a very good braking package by simply adding braided front brake lines from an aftermarket supplier such as HEL, Galfer or Goodridge ($80-$150) and some race specification pads ($50-$200). 

In choosing pads there are a huge amount of options out there. I personally use Performance Friction pads, and have found them to be excellent, however others have achieved equally good results with products from EBC, Brembo, SBS, the list goes on. 

Last but not least is some high performance brake fluid. What you are looking for here is a high wet boiling point. Castrol’s SRF ($160/L) is probably the most popular choice out there, but I have also had excellent results from Motul RBF 660($30/500ml). These three modifications will give a substantial increase in feel and braking power over the stock road setup, and most importantly they will dramatically reduce the amount of “fade” you experience towards the end of a race.

If the rules allow then an upgraded front master-cylinder should be next on your shopping list. Brembo offer an 18-20 x 19 RCS option ($400-$500), which allows adjustability between increased feel from the 18 ratio and a stronger bite using the 20 option. This is great if you are new to the race scene and aren’t yet sure what you prefer, and it’s not substantially more expensive than a non-adjustable aftermarket master-cylinder. The performance increase from a master-cylinder change will depend on how good your stock system was to begin with, however I did notice a substantial improvement on my GSX-R1000 from the Brembo MC.

If rules and budget are not restrictive, then it’s time to look at some aftermarket rotors and calipers. On the rear I normally just run a wave type rotor ($150-$250) to save approx 100g of rotating mass and leave everything else stock, as I rarely use the rear brake unless I’m off in a gravel trap! On the front you can look to a wave type setup from Galfer or Braking ($600-$800), however most of the front running teams are still using traditional circular rotors from Brembo ($800-$1500). 

For callipers Brembo have a range of options starting at their cast entry level items ($1000-$1500/set) and progressing up to their ultra trick race specification billet Monoblocs ($6000-$8000/set).

Bodywork
Replacing your stock bodywork with something more suitable for track use is highly recommended and due to the rules for most series stipulating a bellypan able to hold a certain amount of fluid, pretty much essential. Aftermarket fairings made from fibreglass ($800-$1200) or carbon-fibre ($2000-$3000) will save a substantial amount of weight from the heavy stock plastics and are also much easier and cheaper to repair if you happen to have an off. At this time I would also suggest picking up a slightly damaged tank from a wrecker if you can find one at a reasonable price ($350-$700), as replacing a stock tank is a very expensive exercise if you want to return your bike to road trim down the track.

Other items on the bodywork list include fibreglass/carbon-fibre air-intake ducts, tank cover, chain guard and rear hugger. All these items will be lighter in fibreglass or carbon-fibre and will also be cheaper than replacing damaged OEM components. While you are doing the bodywork consider moving to an aftermarket screen from Zero Gravity or Puig ($80-$150) and I would recommend a double bubble unit if the rules in your class allow. Again this will be cheaper than replacing an EOM item if it gets damaged and a double bubble design reduces buffeting immensely when you pop up to hit the brakes at the end of the straight.

Some fairing suppliers now offer to supply your race bodywork with the gel coat pre coloured to your requirements. The finish and tone may not be as good as quality paintwork, however it is a very cost effective way of having some colour on your bike and with the addition of a few stickers will still look fine from 10 metres away. If you want a full custom paint job then prices can vary widely ($500-$2000) depending on the complexity and quality you require. 

Weight Reduction
Weight is the enemy of just about everything that makes a motorcycle go fast around a racetrack. Acceleration, braking and cornering performance are all hugely effected by the overall weight of the bike and any reductions can have significant benefits in reducing lap times and also tyre wear. Depending on the rules in your class you may be quite limited in what you are allowed to change on the bike and may also have a minimum weight limit, however here are some things you can do if the rules allow. 

Probably the easiest and best bang for your buck weight reduction item available these days comes through replacing the stock lead acid battery with a much lighter and smaller Lithium-Ion unit ($200-$400). This will save multiple kilograms for the price of a few hundred dollars and let me tell you, the top WSBK teams are spending thousands to save a few grams by the time they get to the end of weight reduction programs.

Next on the list are lightweight aluminium alloy fasteners. You would be shocked to find out how many nuts and bolts there really are on a motorcycle and to say you could replace somewhere in the region of 150-200 steel bolts with aluminium would not be overstating it. Just don’t get too excited with this, structural bolts such as engine mounts, brake calliper mounts, triple clamp bolts, etc should all be left off the alloy replacement list. You do not want to have a brake calliper bolt shear through when you hit the anchors at over 280km/ph into turn one at SMSP! 

Still on fasteners you can spend hours knocking off the spare 3-5mm of thread on the end of structural steel bolts, and drilling out hollow bolts for items such as the subframe mounts to an extra 1mm oversize. I was once talking to the owner of a well known performance shop about this type of work and his attitude was, “Just go and have a piss before you race, it will save more weight than drilling out that bolt”.

“Well yes and I do but you can only have one piss and all these little things add up to make a big difference when you multiply it by 200.”

Speaking of sub-frames, alloy aftermarket race units are available for most sports bikes ($500-$800). Alternatively you could save quite a bit of weight here by reducing the amount of brackets in the stock item, and replacing the heavy plastic OEM undertray with fibreglass or carbon-fibre unit, although you may have to make this up yourself as I haven’t found suitable items to be readily available off the shelf.

If budget and class rules are not a problem then a set of lightweight aftermarket wheels are possibly the most significant weight reduction item you can add, due to the fact that any weight saved here is both unsprung (improved suspension action) and rotating (improved handling, acceleration and braking). Aftermarket aluminium rims are the most cost effective option ($1500-$2500/set) and should provide a small but noticeable improvement over OEM. For a more pronounced improvement Magnesium Alloy ($2500-$4000) or carbon-fibre ($4000-$5000) are the materials of choice for WSBK and GP teams and look just as trick as they perform.

Other Add-Ons
The majority of race series now require high strength engine case covers to be fitted, as modern OEM covers are very fragile, and also a shark fin rear sprocket guard to prevent “Daryl Beattie syndrome” (No toes). Damaging engine cases in a crash will almost definitely result in a serious amount of oil on the track, which is dangerous for other competitors and creates a lot of clean up work for the marshals. Kits are available from Vortex, GB Racing, Woodcraft, Yoshimura and others ($250-$500) and while you are at it get some rear stand swingarm bobbins ($40-$80).

To protect the expensive OEM items and allow increased adjustability, you should look to replace the standard handlebars with aftermarket clip-ons ($150-$250) and swap OEM footpegs with adjustable rearsets ($350-$800), from Vortex, Renthal, Woodcraft, Yoshimura, Sato or similar. I also prefer some grips with a little more bite and find the Renthal dual compounds to work very well ($25). 

While not essential a 520 chain conversion kit ($250-$400) will reduce power losses to the rear wheel and allow a wide choice of gearing options, as this is the most popular pitch for racing world wide. A lot of national series run a control tyre at the moment, which means you don’t have to worry about making a choice and prices average around $550 per set. 

If you do not need to run a control tyre, then some brands can be picked up for around $480/set fitted and you would expect to go through a minimum of two sets per race weekend. Also keep in mind that you will need spare tyres in reasonable condition for practice days, so it’s advisable not to race them until they are completely finished. The last thing you want to do is be trying to race on completely shot tyres, then shell out for a brand new set just for practice. It’s far better to partially use one extra set of tyres on race day and leave yourself with enough rubber for your next practice session.

Lockwiring
Finally on the bike preparation front, all race bikes are required as a minimum to have the following items lockwired – oil filler cap, oil filter, sump plug, radiator cap and front brake calliper bolts. I like to use a hose clamp around the oil filter, and “R” clips through the caps and calliper bolts, this allows easy removal without having to rewire everything each time.

Check out how to lockwire your bike here…

Riding Gear
Before you get out on track you are going to need some decent protective clothing. The price of leathers has come down significantly in the last decade and reasonable quality kit is now available for a much more affordable price ($500-$800). If you want something with a bit more style and comfort then you can upgrade to some premium brand Leathers from Dainese, Alpinestar, Spidi, or similar ($1200-$1800). For those who are a bit different in body shape or just want a custom design or perfect fit, made to measure leathers are produced locally by specialists such as Ricondi, Trinity Racewear, Quin Leathers or Tiger Angel ($1500-$2500).

A back protector ($100-$350), gloves ($100-$400) and boots ($250-$600) are all mandatory and you should always shell out on the best kit you can afford in this area. Trying on a range of brands and styles is a good idea, as they all have a slightly different fit and some will suit your individual body shape better than others.

The last and most important item is a quality helmet. If you’ve been around motorcycles for a while, then you’ve no doubt heard the phrase, “If you’ve got a $10 head, wear a $10 helmet”. Surgeons are pretty skilled these days and can repair most things you are likely to break in an accident, however your brain is not on that list. Spend some dollars and protect it. In my personal opinion, if you can’t afford a $500 helmet as a minimum, then you can’t afford to go racing. Cheaper lids do pass all the safety criteria, or you wouldn’t be allowed to buy them, however they tend to be heavier, which increases the whip force when your head smashes into something solid (like bitumen).

Top range helmets, think Shoei, Arai, AGV ($600-$1200) are lighter, more comfortable, afford a better field of vision and have had the R&D dollars spent to ensure the best possible fit and protection.

Equipment
Additional equipment you will require to go racing includes a trailer or van to get the bike to and from the track, and what you choose here will generally reflect what you can afford and also what suits your requirements away from racing. I use a box trailer ($800-$1400) with a runner and tie down points, and chose this option as it does double duty for garbage and mulch shifting purposes. A fully enclosed trailer ($3000-$6000) would be ideal if you want everything locked up and protected and also allows you to leave tools and parts stored in the trailer at home rather than having to unpack after every meeting.

Check out our transportation tips here…

Front and rear stands are mandatory ($250-$450/set) and I’d recommend going with a head lifting style front stand, which allows easy removal of the front forks for suspension adjustment.

Tyre warmers ($250-$800) are really an essential item these days. Modern race tyres are designed to run only one to three heat cycles, so you need to get them warm, and keep them warm all day to reduce the negative effects. They are also intended to run off tyre warmers and will cold tear badly if you try to ride without heat in them. Trust me, your reduced tyre bill will pay for the warmers after only a couple of race weekends and going out on pre-heated rubber will also dramatically reduce the chances of a first lap crash.

Other desirable equipment includes a decent tool kit, crash spares including clip-ons and footpegs as a minimum and preferably spare fairings and screen, brake levers, throttle tube and grips. Also include cable ties, lock wire, duct tape, spare knee and toe sliders, tinted and clear visors, ear plugs, alternative sprockets, spare rims with wets, chairs and table, extension leads and power boards, Loctite and a selection of nuts bolts and washers.

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