Demand has been huge, with Suzuki confirming more than 1,300 online expressions of interest already lodged since the models were first teased. To manage the rush, Suzuki is launching a priority pre-order process designed to reward early fans who registered their interest online.

Customers who completed the “Register Your Interest” form will receive an email from Suzuki on August 12 inviting them to contact their preferred dealer to arrange pre-order contracts. Dealers and customers have until August 29 to lock in as many confirmed pre-orders as possible. The initial December shipment will then be allocated in the order registrations were received.

From September 1, orders will be processed on a first-come, first-served basis, matched to the earliest registration dates until stock is exhausted.

Both models will be offered in two colours:
DR-Z4S – Champion Yellow No.2 / Solid Special White No.2, or Solid Iron Grey.
DR-Z4SM – Solid Special White No.2, or Sky Grey.

Suzuki will also offer a range of Genuine Accessories for both bikes, including knuckle covers, brake disc covers, axle sliders, a rear carrier, aluminium skid plate, and a low seat.

Check out our video review from the World Launch… 

For more information, customers can contact their local Suzuki dealer or visit www.suzukimotorcycles.com.au.

The post Suzuki DR-Z4S and DR-Z4SM Pricing & Availability | Review Video appeared first on Racing, Riding, Motorcycle Reviews, Race bikes, Tech Tips, Rider Training....

This marks the third collaboration between the two icons of Italian engineering and style, following the Diavel 1260 Lamborghini and the wild Streetfighter V4 Lamborghini. With shared roots in the heart of Italy’s legendary Motor Valley, Ducati and Lamborghini have blended their passions for high-performance, precision engineering, and unmistakable design to create something truly special.

“With the Panigale V4 Lamborghini, we continue our mission to craft the most beautiful and exclusive motorcycles for the road,” said Ducati CEO Claudio Domenicali. “We’ve taken inspiration from the Lamborghini Revuelto and applied it to our most advanced superbike to date.”

Revuelto-Inspired Design Meets Panigale Performance
The new Panigale V4 Lamborghini is based on the latest-generation Panigale V4 S platform but features extensive aesthetic and component upgrades designed in collaboration with Lamborghini’s Centro Stile. The result? A stunning machine limited to just 630 numbered units, each dripping with supercar-inspired styling and materials.

Read our 2025 Ducati Panigale V4 S review here…

Visually, the bike features exposed carbon-fibre bodywork finished in a bespoke livery drawn directly from the Revuelto’s colour palette: a mix of Verde Scandal, Grigio Telesto, and Grigio Acheso. The forged aluminium wheels mimic the style of the Revuelto, while the aerodynamic wings and tail unit have been reworked by Ducati’s design team to better mirror the aggressive lines of the Lamborghini hypercar.

Everywhere you look, the bike is a tribute to Lamborghini. From the custom saddle inspired by the Revuelto’s interior, to the carbon-fibre heat shields, heel guards, and mudguards, attention to detail is off the charts. The carbon weave follows Lamborghini’s signature herringbone layout—perfectly symmetrical down the centreline.

Performance: Lighter, Faster, Sharper
Under the skin, this is still a thoroughbred Ducati. Power comes from the Desmosedici Stradale 1103cc V4, putting out a monstrous 218.5hp thanks to a dedicated engine calibration and a full Akrapovič titanium exhaust with carbon end caps. The Panigale V4 Lamborghini weighs in at just 185kg, nearly 2kg lighter than the standard V4 S, giving it a ferocious 1.18 hp/kg power-to-weight ratio.

The bike features all the tech Ducati can throw at it, including the Ducati Vehicle Observer (DVO) predictive electronics suite, Race eCBS, Öhlins Smart EC 2.0 suspension, and a dry clutch. Billet aluminium levers, footrests, and counterweights add to the premium feel, while extras like a racing tank cap, carbon clutch cover, open license plate delete kit, and brake cooling ducts are also included in the crate for track-day addicts. And yes, each bike is delivered in a customised wooden crate with a matching paddock stand, certificate of authenticity, and fitted bike cover.

Speciale Clienti: Lamborghini Owners Only
For those lucky enough to own a Lamborghini Revuelto, Ducati is offering an even more exclusive version: the Panigale V4 Lamborghini Speciale Clienti. Limited to just 63 units, this variant allows Lamborghini customers to work directly with Ducati’s Centro Stile to colour-match their Panigale to their supercar—or select from a curated palette of options. Even the triple clamp engraving and rear stand are customisable. It’s the ultimate flex—a matching Ducati and Lamborghini pairing, designed down to the last bolt.

Full Racing Look Available
Completing the package, Ducati is offering an exclusive line of matching gear, including a helmet, leather suit, and jacket in the same colour scheme as the bike. Buyers of the Speciale Clienti variant can even customise the leather suit to match their unique livery.

Availability
Deliveries of the Ducati Panigale V4 Lamborghini are scheduled to begin in September 2025, and with just 630 examples globally (plus 63 Speciale Clienti bikes), this latest collector’s edition is expected to sell out faster than a Desmosedici on a straight.

Stay tuned for local availability and pricing as it’s confirmed—and if you’re lucky enough to secure one, we want to feature it!

The post New Model: 2025 Ducati Panigale V4 Lamborghini Unveiled in Milan appeared first on Racing, Riding, Motorcycle Reviews, Race bikes, Tech Tips, Rider Training....

So when the chance came up to ride the very last version of the famous and successful TZ250 I couldn’t say no and just quietly I was quite looking forward to it. This bike was a little special though, it had come directly from the Garage 4413 team who campaigned it to the runner-up slot in the All Japan 250cc Championship. The bike’s current owner, Harry Danilidis, purchased it from the team two years ago, straight after the Championship.

Check out our other racer tests here…

Harry chose it simply because, in his own words, ‘it was a pure race bike and the last of its breed’. Harry’s passion for the bike is evident when he lets us know that it only did one season and was never crashed so therefore the spares kit is still full. It made me feel quite privileged to be given an open pit lane, a clear circuit and a brand new set of soft compound Bridgestone slicks to use as I saw fit.

On the technical side, the bike is a kitted TZ250-5KE and the final evolution of the original TZ250. In standard trim the bike puts out a claimed 93hp but with the addition of the kit that is boosted significantly to 105hp. The cylinders are factory items but the porting is done in-house by the team. A few other parts are sourced from ‘The Japanese Tuning House for Yamaha GP bikes’.

The ignition system is Yamaha along with the dry clutch and the factory exhausts. Trevor Lusby of Scott’s MC was our mechanic for the day and looks after the bike. He mixed the fuel at a fairly conservative fuel/oil mix for us journos and has jetted the bike slightly on the rich side just to be safe and taking into account the cool morning temperature.

I had previously ridden a GSX-R750 earlier in the day testing some Pirelli tyres and that is usually considered a pretty nimble bike in terms of the big four-strokes so when I jumped on the TZ and accelerated out onto the private circuit more affectionately known as ‘The Farm’ I knew I was on the right bike. Anyone who has ridden at The Farm will know that there is absolutely no rest and corner after corner that includes a five-changes-of-direction chicane to give a grand total of 29 corners. If there was any bike you would want under you while negotiating 29 corners per lap then this little Yamaha is the one.

As I wound up to speed and got used to the two-stroke again, the brakes were the first thing that took me by surprise with their incredible stopping power. The Nissin calipers give great feel and that coupled with the Bridgestone front tyre soon pushed aside any concerns I had of stopping without the assistance of the engine braking that I have come to rely on. I simply just squeezed the TZ’s brakes a little harder and never missed an apex all day.

I have to mention the Bridgestones that Trevor had fitted for me because from the moment I went out and got the bike on my knee, they gave me great confidence and feedback. The front actually seemed to get better and better the harder I pushed it and although the rear started to slide on the corner exits towards the end it was very predictable and a lot of fun. This was typical of a soft compound tyre getting a little hot and starting to move around a little.

The engine pulls from as low as 6-7000rpm exiting the slow turns but builds revs really quickly as I went up through the gears all the way to the shift point about 12,500rpm via the quickshifter. It flattened a little right at the top but as Trevor mentioned earlier this was due to him going on the rich side with the jetting. This also made it a little rough on initial opening from closed throttle at low rpm.

The real reminder that you are riding a true race bike comes when going back down through the gearbox. Rushing into one of the turns in fourth gear then banging it down all the way to first reminds you how easy and quickly this is done on a two-stroke. I went down three gears while braking really hard with the rear wheel barely touching the surface and there wasn’t the slightest unsettling from the rear during the downshifts.

Initially looking at the bike I assumed it would feel very cramped and small with the high footpegs but once I was on the bike and lapping I had plenty of space in the turns and no problem getting tucked in down the two straights.

The TZ gives the feeling and response that I remember chasing on the four-strokes for years. The little Yamaha turns in very easily without being unpredictable and comes into an apex time after time and holds its line on the exit because it steers on the throttle.

Finally I have to bring up the five-corner chicane again because on most bikes you would be thinking, oh no not again but on the TZ you finding yourself looking forward to reassuring yourself that it really is that easy. Sadly though, these pure race bikes were built for one reason and are destined for museums, parade laps and passionate collectors. Very few will have the opportunity to sample these thoroughbreds, which is a shame.

Jeffs Thoughts
I’ve wanted to ride a proper late model 250GP forever. Having raced 250 proddies for years and being part of a top running Honda team in Japan that ran 250 GP bikes (I was riding 600s and 1000s), I’ve always drooled over 250 GP machines. But a few things stopped me ever racing one – mainly money and my fat arse! 

The first thing that grabs me is the size. I’m 25kg heavier than I was last time I rode a 250… Once I squeezed in I was OK. And after the initial amount of clutch slip and rpm took me a second to get used to after so many years of four-stroke riding, I was off up the chute. The bike was hot and the tyres too so I wasted no time. I put my head down and ran the bike through to 12,500rpm. I like to do that – rather than ease into a shock of power just get the shock over with! Once I had a feel for the powerband and throttle I was off.

I’ve done a million laps of The Farm and never been fully satisfied on any bike I’ve ridden on the challenging layout. There is always a section that doesn’t suit a bike in some way. But not this time. The TZ250 is perfection.

The bike was jetted on the rich side so it was a matter of rolling off the throttle very gently mid-turn to lean the bike out then it would snap into its powerband and that sticky rear Bridgestone would step out. So much fun! The gearbox actuation was incredible and the quickshifter sensational.

But the big thing for me was the performance of the front-end – the tyre, brakes and forks all worked together to give feel and accuracy that I simply have never felt before. No chance of running wide or missing an apex whether on or off the brakes. The chassis was inch perfect everywhere and the most amazing section, the Famous Five Esses, was a dream on the 100kg 105hp pure racer.

The bike was so well presented and it was a real honour to ride it. I can honestly say I’ve never had so much fun on two wheels. It’s over and above the ride on John Kosinski’s Cagiva 500 or Broc Parkes’ ZX-6R. It was just a dream come true for this boy racer!

2009 Yamaha TZ250 5KE SPECIFICATIONS 

Price: N/A
Power: 105Hp
Wet weight: 95kg

Engine: Yamaha 5KE 250cc two-stroke GP engine, SJK internals
Bore & stroke: 54 x 54.5mm 
Displacement: 249cc
Compression: 7.2 – 7.7:1
Fuel delivery: Keihin flatslides
Exhaust: Yamaha Racing
Gearbox: Cassette-style adjustable ratios
Clutch: Dry
Final drive: Chain

Chassis: Aluminium, hand made
Wheelbase: Variable
Rake & trail: Variable
Suspension: Front: Showa; Rear: Showa
Brakes: Front: Nissin/Brembo Rear: Nissin
Wheels: Front: 2.75 x 17 Magnesium Rear: 5.50 x 17 Magnesium
Tyres: Bridgestone slicks

2009 Yamaha TZ250 5KE Gallery

The post Racer Test: 2009 Yamaha TZ250 GP Bike appeared first on Racing, Riding, Motorcycle Reviews, Race bikes, Tech Tips, Rider Training....

GasGas sent their trusted mechanic on a trip through their Technical Accessories warehouse to grab everything needed to create a bike that delivers serious thrills on the asphalt. And the best part is, with just a little bit of mechanical know-how, GasGas say it’s super-easy to build your very own Supermoto!

In stock trim, the MC 450F is an awesome motocross machine. But GasGas say their curiosity got the better of them and they decided to fully transform one into a fully-fledged Supermoto. They began with the essentials – a specific wheelset and tires, stronger brakes, and shortened suspension, which are all readily available from the GASGAS Technical Accessories range. The final components were then added to make this a true Supermoto, another project bike completed!

Missed the flat track build? Check it out below.

Keen to build your own GASGAS project bike? Get started today with a trip to your local GASGAS dealer and explore all possibilities with their range of Technical Accessories.

The post GasGas Turn Their MC 450F Into A Supermoto Monster! appeared first on Racing, Riding, Motorcycle Reviews, Race bikes, Tech Tips, Rider Training....

We had the V4 S for a week or so and Jeff covered 600km on the bike including a day at our proving ground working through the huge array of electronic settings on the bike. Check out the video to see how the Panigale V4 S handled The Farm!

2018 Ducati Panigale V4 S Specifications

ducati.com.au

Price: $37,490 + ORC (standard model $28,900 + ORC).
Warranty: Two years/unlimited kilometre
Colours: Red
Claimed power: 157.3kW [211hp]@13,000rpm
Claimed torque: 124Nm[91.5ft-lbs]@10,000rpm
Wet weight: 195kg
Fuel capacity: 16 litres

Engine: Liquid-cooled 1103cc 16-valve DOHC Desmo V4, 81 x 53.5mm bore x stroke, 14.01:1 compression, twin injectors per cylinder, elliptical throttle-bodies, 4-2-1-2 exhaust.
Gearbox: Six speed, quickshifter
Clutch: Wet multi-plate slipper Final ratio: N/A Final drive: Chain

Chassis: Aluminium steering head, engine stressed member, aluminium swingarm
Wheelbase: 1469mm
Rake: 24.5 degrees
Trail: 100mm
Suspension: 43mm Ohlins NIX30 forks, 120mm travel, Smart EC Semi-active adjustment. Rear: Ohlins Monoshock, 130mm travel, Smart EC semi-active adjustment.
Brakes: 330mm Brembo rotors, Brembo four-piston monobloc Stylema calipers, ABS, 245mm rear rotor, twin-piston caliper.
Wheels & Tyres: Forged alloy Marchesini wheels, 120/70-17, 200/60-17 Pirelli SC.

Instruments: TFT Display unit.

The post Video Review: 2018 Ducati Panigale V4 S appeared first on Racing, Riding, Motorcycle Reviews, Race bikes, Tech Tips, Rider Training....

If you have supplemented your road riding with some ride days, are running in the fast group and now find you spend most of your day at the local track being held up by slower traffic, then the logical progression is to have a go at racing. The good news is that if you own a late model sports bike or nakedbike, then you already have a great base from which to build a competitive racing motorcycle by carrying out some reasonably straightforward improvements.

This guide is designed to take you through the modifications required to convert your existing road bike into a race specification machine, and covers a range of performance levels to suit your budget and skill level.

The bike you start with is really going to determine how important engine modifications are to your lap times. If you are running a late model 1000cc bike and you’re starting out in racing, then you can’t fully utilise the 162bhp your stock bike has. 

If you are running a 600cc machine then more horsepower could definitely give you an advantage, especially in passing down the straights during a race, so your requirements may be different. I’m going to break this down into a number of stages, and if you’re inexperienced then I really recommend keeping engine mods to a minimum and spending your dollars on suspension setup, weight reduction and practice, as that is where you will find the biggest improvements.

Stage 1 – Bolt-ons
The obvious starting point for engine upgrades is to use off the shelf parts that do not require the engine to be rebuilt. As a start point a slip-on muffler ($250-$800) or Stainless Steel full race exhaust system ($1200-$2000), race airfilter ($80), plus a Power Commander and map from a reputable dyno room ($800-$1200), will get you around 170HP at the back wheel on a late model Japanese 1000 and a good clean torque curve right through your acceleration zone. This is really all you need to do to your engine until you are running top 15 in one of the major Australian Championship classes.

Stage 2 – Light internal mods
If pulling your engine out and taking the head off is not too scary for you, then a relatively simple and cheap mod is to install a thinner head gasket ($200), which will give a noticeable improvement in torque and throttle response, and brings your power up to around the 175HP mark. At this stage I’d also look to add a quickshifter ($350-$600), which not only improves acceleration but also allows you to “spend” valuable concentration in other areas.

Stage 3 – Getting serious
If a 200hp monster is what you really must have, then serious engine work is the only way to get there. This is going to require camshafts ($1200-$1800), a CNC ported head and multi angle valve job ($1500-$2000) plus possibly machining of the pistons, blueprinting and labour ($1500-$2500). Alternatively you can drop your motor off to someone like PTR Racing or Motologic and just ask them to build you an ASBK spec motor ($6,000-$8,000).

Suspension
This is an area where correct setup is critical to lap times no matter what type of machine you ride. If there is one area of bike preparation on which to focus, this is it. Poorly set up suspension will not only be the biggest barrier to improving your lap speed, it could also land you in hospital and see your pride and joy being carted home in a wheelbarrow.

Again there are a range of options here and buying the most expensive Ohlins WSBK kit is not necessarily the answer. Installation of the correct springs for your weight and an after market valve kit into your stock forks and shock ($800-$1200) by a reputable specialist such as Terry Hay’s Shock Treatment will make an enormous difference to lap times and allow you to find your limit more safely. You should also add an aftermarket steering damper ($250-$500) to keep those headshake issues under control as your new motor has the front wheel pawing at the sky. 

Next in line on the suspension upgrade list are race specification fork cartridges from Race Tech ($1200) or Ohlins ($1800), plus an aftermarket Shock ($1400-$2000), which will provide further improvement. If you want to get really serious then a set of SBK specification gas charged Ohlins or K-Tech front forks ($13,000-$16,000) will certainly make you the envy of all in pit lane, just don’t forget the factory technician to service and set them up.

Brakes
Most of the national classes in Australian racing are quite restrictive in terms of the modifications you can make to the braking system. Modern sports bikes do have extremely efficient brakes as standard, however they are set up more for road use than the repeated high load requirements found during a circuit race.

You can achieve significant improvements and a very good braking package by simply adding braided front brake lines from an aftermarket supplier such as HEL, Galfer or Goodridge ($80-$150) and some race specification pads ($50-$200). 

In choosing pads there are a huge amount of options out there. I personally use Performance Friction pads, and have found them to be excellent, however others have achieved equally good results with products from EBC, Brembo, SBS, the list goes on. 

Last but not least is some high performance brake fluid. What you are looking for here is a high wet boiling point. Castrol’s SRF ($160/L) is probably the most popular choice out there, but I have also had excellent results from Motul RBF 660($30/500ml). These three modifications will give a substantial increase in feel and braking power over the stock road setup, and most importantly they will dramatically reduce the amount of “fade” you experience towards the end of a race.

If the rules allow then an upgraded front master-cylinder should be next on your shopping list. Brembo offer an 18-20 x 19 RCS option ($400-$500), which allows adjustability between increased feel from the 18 ratio and a stronger bite using the 20 option. This is great if you are new to the race scene and aren’t yet sure what you prefer, and it’s not substantially more expensive than a non-adjustable aftermarket master-cylinder. The performance increase from a master-cylinder change will depend on how good your stock system was to begin with, however I did notice a substantial improvement on my GSX-R1000 from the Brembo MC.

If rules and budget are not restrictive, then it’s time to look at some aftermarket rotors and calipers. On the rear I normally just run a wave type rotor ($150-$250) to save approx 100g of rotating mass and leave everything else stock, as I rarely use the rear brake unless I’m off in a gravel trap! On the front you can look to a wave type setup from Galfer or Braking ($600-$800), however most of the front running teams are still using traditional circular rotors from Brembo ($800-$1500). 

For callipers Brembo have a range of options starting at their cast entry level items ($1000-$1500/set) and progressing up to their ultra trick race specification billet Monoblocs ($6000-$8000/set).

Bodywork
Replacing your stock bodywork with something more suitable for track use is highly recommended and due to the rules for most series stipulating a bellypan able to hold a certain amount of fluid, pretty much essential. Aftermarket fairings made from fibreglass ($800-$1200) or carbon-fibre ($2000-$3000) will save a substantial amount of weight from the heavy stock plastics and are also much easier and cheaper to repair if you happen to have an off. At this time I would also suggest picking up a slightly damaged tank from a wrecker if you can find one at a reasonable price ($350-$700), as replacing a stock tank is a very expensive exercise if you want to return your bike to road trim down the track.

Other items on the bodywork list include fibreglass/carbon-fibre air-intake ducts, tank cover, chain guard and rear hugger. All these items will be lighter in fibreglass or carbon-fibre and will also be cheaper than replacing damaged OEM components. While you are doing the bodywork consider moving to an aftermarket screen from Zero Gravity or Puig ($80-$150) and I would recommend a double bubble unit if the rules in your class allow. Again this will be cheaper than replacing an EOM item if it gets damaged and a double bubble design reduces buffeting immensely when you pop up to hit the brakes at the end of the straight.

Some fairing suppliers now offer to supply your race bodywork with the gel coat pre coloured to your requirements. The finish and tone may not be as good as quality paintwork, however it is a very cost effective way of having some colour on your bike and with the addition of a few stickers will still look fine from 10 metres away. If you want a full custom paint job then prices can vary widely ($500-$2000) depending on the complexity and quality you require. 

Weight Reduction
Weight is the enemy of just about everything that makes a motorcycle go fast around a racetrack. Acceleration, braking and cornering performance are all hugely effected by the overall weight of the bike and any reductions can have significant benefits in reducing lap times and also tyre wear. Depending on the rules in your class you may be quite limited in what you are allowed to change on the bike and may also have a minimum weight limit, however here are some things you can do if the rules allow. 

Probably the easiest and best bang for your buck weight reduction item available these days comes through replacing the stock lead acid battery with a much lighter and smaller Lithium-Ion unit ($200-$400). This will save multiple kilograms for the price of a few hundred dollars and let me tell you, the top WSBK teams are spending thousands to save a few grams by the time they get to the end of weight reduction programs.

Next on the list are lightweight aluminium alloy fasteners. You would be shocked to find out how many nuts and bolts there really are on a motorcycle and to say you could replace somewhere in the region of 150-200 steel bolts with aluminium would not be overstating it. Just don’t get too excited with this, structural bolts such as engine mounts, brake calliper mounts, triple clamp bolts, etc should all be left off the alloy replacement list. You do not want to have a brake calliper bolt shear through when you hit the anchors at over 280km/ph into turn one at SMSP! 

Still on fasteners you can spend hours knocking off the spare 3-5mm of thread on the end of structural steel bolts, and drilling out hollow bolts for items such as the subframe mounts to an extra 1mm oversize. I was once talking to the owner of a well known performance shop about this type of work and his attitude was, “Just go and have a piss before you race, it will save more weight than drilling out that bolt”.

“Well yes and I do but you can only have one piss and all these little things add up to make a big difference when you multiply it by 200.”

Speaking of sub-frames, alloy aftermarket race units are available for most sports bikes ($500-$800). Alternatively you could save quite a bit of weight here by reducing the amount of brackets in the stock item, and replacing the heavy plastic OEM undertray with fibreglass or carbon-fibre unit, although you may have to make this up yourself as I haven’t found suitable items to be readily available off the shelf.

If budget and class rules are not a problem then a set of lightweight aftermarket wheels are possibly the most significant weight reduction item you can add, due to the fact that any weight saved here is both unsprung (improved suspension action) and rotating (improved handling, acceleration and braking). Aftermarket aluminium rims are the most cost effective option ($1500-$2500/set) and should provide a small but noticeable improvement over OEM. For a more pronounced improvement Magnesium Alloy ($2500-$4000) or carbon-fibre ($4000-$5000) are the materials of choice for WSBK and GP teams and look just as trick as they perform.

Other Add-Ons
The majority of race series now require high strength engine case covers to be fitted, as modern OEM covers are very fragile, and also a shark fin rear sprocket guard to prevent “Daryl Beattie syndrome” (No toes). Damaging engine cases in a crash will almost definitely result in a serious amount of oil on the track, which is dangerous for other competitors and creates a lot of clean up work for the marshals. Kits are available from Vortex, GB Racing, Woodcraft, Yoshimura and others ($250-$500) and while you are at it get some rear stand swingarm bobbins ($40-$80).

To protect the expensive OEM items and allow increased adjustability, you should look to replace the standard handlebars with aftermarket clip-ons ($150-$250) and swap OEM footpegs with adjustable rearsets ($350-$800), from Vortex, Renthal, Woodcraft, Yoshimura, Sato or similar. I also prefer some grips with a little more bite and find the Renthal dual compounds to work very well ($25). 

While not essential a 520 chain conversion kit ($250-$400) will reduce power losses to the rear wheel and allow a wide choice of gearing options, as this is the most popular pitch for racing world wide. A lot of national series run a control tyre at the moment, which means you don’t have to worry about making a choice and prices average around $550 per set. 

If you do not need to run a control tyre, then some brands can be picked up for around $480/set fitted and you would expect to go through a minimum of two sets per race weekend. Also keep in mind that you will need spare tyres in reasonable condition for practice days, so it’s advisable not to race them until they are completely finished. The last thing you want to do is be trying to race on completely shot tyres, then shell out for a brand new set just for practice. It’s far better to partially use one extra set of tyres on race day and leave yourself with enough rubber for your next practice session.

Lockwiring
Finally on the bike preparation front, all race bikes are required as a minimum to have the following items lockwired – oil filler cap, oil filter, sump plug, radiator cap and front brake calliper bolts. I like to use a hose clamp around the oil filter, and “R” clips through the caps and calliper bolts, this allows easy removal without having to rewire everything each time.

Check out how to lockwire your bike here…

Riding Gear
Before you get out on track you are going to need some decent protective clothing. The price of leathers has come down significantly in the last decade and reasonable quality kit is now available for a much more affordable price ($500-$800). If you want something with a bit more style and comfort then you can upgrade to some premium brand Leathers from Dainese, Alpinestar, Spidi, or similar ($1200-$1800). For those who are a bit different in body shape or just want a custom design or perfect fit, made to measure leathers are produced locally by specialists such as Ricondi, Trinity Racewear, Quin Leathers or Tiger Angel ($1500-$2500).

A back protector ($100-$350), gloves ($100-$400) and boots ($250-$600) are all mandatory and you should always shell out on the best kit you can afford in this area. Trying on a range of brands and styles is a good idea, as they all have a slightly different fit and some will suit your individual body shape better than others.

The last and most important item is a quality helmet. If you’ve been around motorcycles for a while, then you’ve no doubt heard the phrase, “If you’ve got a $10 head, wear a $10 helmet”. Surgeons are pretty skilled these days and can repair most things you are likely to break in an accident, however your brain is not on that list. Spend some dollars and protect it. In my personal opinion, if you can’t afford a $500 helmet as a minimum, then you can’t afford to go racing. Cheaper lids do pass all the safety criteria, or you wouldn’t be allowed to buy them, however they tend to be heavier, which increases the whip force when your head smashes into something solid (like bitumen).

Top range helmets, think Shoei, Arai, AGV ($600-$1200) are lighter, more comfortable, afford a better field of vision and have had the R&D dollars spent to ensure the best possible fit and protection.

Equipment
Additional equipment you will require to go racing includes a trailer or van to get the bike to and from the track, and what you choose here will generally reflect what you can afford and also what suits your requirements away from racing. I use a box trailer ($800-$1400) with a runner and tie down points, and chose this option as it does double duty for garbage and mulch shifting purposes. A fully enclosed trailer ($3000-$6000) would be ideal if you want everything locked up and protected and also allows you to leave tools and parts stored in the trailer at home rather than having to unpack after every meeting.

Check out our transportation tips here…

Front and rear stands are mandatory ($250-$450/set) and I’d recommend going with a head lifting style front stand, which allows easy removal of the front forks for suspension adjustment.

Tyre warmers ($250-$800) are really an essential item these days. Modern race tyres are designed to run only one to three heat cycles, so you need to get them warm, and keep them warm all day to reduce the negative effects. They are also intended to run off tyre warmers and will cold tear badly if you try to ride without heat in them. Trust me, your reduced tyre bill will pay for the warmers after only a couple of race weekends and going out on pre-heated rubber will also dramatically reduce the chances of a first lap crash.

Other desirable equipment includes a decent tool kit, crash spares including clip-ons and footpegs as a minimum and preferably spare fairings and screen, brake levers, throttle tube and grips. Also include cable ties, lock wire, duct tape, spare knee and toe sliders, tinted and clear visors, ear plugs, alternative sprockets, spare rims with wets, chairs and table, extension leads and power boards, Loctite and a selection of nuts bolts and washers.

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