To celebrate International Female Ride Day 2024, Leanne partnered with two-time World Superbike champion Troy Corser to conduct the first of what she plans to be an ongoing series of coaching days tailored exclusively for female motorcycle riders. “Today is all about empowering women and helping them improve their skills as riders, whether it be on the road or the racetrack,” Leanne explained before the start of her first event at the Marulan’s Pheasant Wood circuit in NSW. “I want to assist these girls in having more confidence within themselves and their riding. It’s a two-pronged approach based on the sort of guidance I wish I had been given when I first started riding. Providing the girls with an environment where they can be relaxed, ask questions, and not feel intimidated is paramount. This includes not feeling overwhelmed by the speeds and on-track congestion you can sometimes experience at regular track days.”

Addressing the participants at the rider’s briefing, Leanne emphasised that the day is about learning and improving, not speed. “The focus today is on improving, and I want to see everyone having a great time,” she told the assembled group. Leanne also explained why the Pheasant Wood circuit is the ideal location for the coaching day. “Scott and the Pheasant Wood team could not have been more accommodating with making the day happen, the track here is perfect for the coaching we are doing. Experienced riders can enjoy the challenge, while those who have never been on a track before will not find it as intimidating as a big high-speed circuit.”

Despite the unpredictable weather, the day attracted the targeted 25 entrants, and looking at the smiles on faces as the day unfolded, it appears Leanne is onto a winner. “There’s a type of camaraderie at female-only days that you don’t get at a regular track day,” she said. “Most of these girls didn’t know each other before the day started, but you can already tell they will leave as friends.”

The Yamaha brand was well represented during the day, and we spoke with riders to learn more about their passion for riding and what they hope to get from the day.

Tania Smith – Yamaha YZF-R15M
Don’t let her slight build and calm, softly spoken demeanour fool you; Tania Smith is a life-long adrenalin junky who lives in the fast lane. Despite being a recent convert to the two-wheeled lifestyle, she has already accumulated an impressive collection of high-performance machinery, which she rides at every opportunity. However, when it comes to improving as a rider and becoming faster and safer on track, Tania decided Yamaha’s 150cc YZF-R15M sportsbike was the best machine to fine-tune her riding technique.

“I’ve always been an adrenaline junkie, I’m so glad I’ve taken up motorcycle riding. I’ve been riding for five years now, and I’m totally addicted,” she laughed. “But I’m only relatively new to track days; this is my fourth. I want to do much more.” One of the few regrets Tania has in life is her failure to take up motorcycle riding at a much younger age. “I’ve always been an adrenaline junkie, but water sports were my thing. I’m so glad I’ve taken up motorcycle riding and I’ll certainly be making up for lost time.” Tania explained that her partner Tim is responsible for getting her into motorcycle riding, “At first, I was on the back with Tim, but after a while, I thought to myself, you know what? I can do that.”

Roxanne Guzman – Yamaha XSR900
Roxanne – or Rox as everyone likes to call her – is a true Yam Fan. Starting her two-wheeled journey a little over two years ago on a YZF-R3, she always had her eye on an XSR900, “This bike is my absolute dream bike,” she explained while showing off her red and white sport heritage machine with its personalised accessories. “I love riding every day; I commute to work on the XSR900 and also ride it all weekend.”

Rox had received some previous on-track coaching, but after reading the Motor | Life | Passion story about Leanne Nelson and hearing about her all-female coaching event, she jumped at the chance to attend the Marulan coaching day. While addicted to riding of all kinds, Rox has developed a soft spot for long-distance riding, “Last week, I completed a ride from Sydney to Victoria in less than 24 hours,” she explained, “If I could ride all day, every day.”

As a member of the Iron Butt Association, a group dedicated to long-distance time-limited riding, Rox has already completed her 1600km in 24-hours certificate and is now eyeing off the next challenge, “I love to test my physical and mental ability, to go as long as possible and to travel as far as possible; endurance riding lets me do that,” she explained, “It’s amazing how many Yamahas are part of the Iron Butt group, I guess it’s due to their legendary reliability; it’s certainly one of the main reasons I chose a Yamaha.”

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2022 MotoGP Calendar

• 06 March Qatar Losail International Circuit
• 20 March Indonesia Mandalika International Street Circuit
• 03 April Republica Argentina Termas de Rio Hondo
• 10 April Americas Circuit of The Americas
• 24 April Portugal Algarve International Circuit
• 01 May Spain Circuito de Jerez-Ángel Nieto
• 15 May France Le Mans
• 29 May Italy Autodromo del Mugello
• 05 June Catalunya Barcelona-Catalunya
• 19 June Germany Sachsenring

• 26 June Netherlands TT Circuit Assen
• 10 July Finland KymiRing
• 07 August Great Britain Silverstone Circuit
• 21 August Austria Red Bull Ring-Spielberg
• 04 September San Marino e della Riviera di Rimini Misano World Circuit Marco Simoncelli
• 18 September Aragón MotorLand Aragón
• 25 September Japan Twin Ring Motegi
• 02 October Thailand Chang International Circuit
• 16 October Australia Phillip Island
• 23 October Malaysia Sepang International Circuit
• 06 November Comunitat Valenciana Comunitat Valenciana-Ricardo Tormo
  

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2022 WorldSBK Calendar

• 8 April Aragón MotorLand Aragón
• 22 April Netherlands TT Circuit Assen
• 20 May Circuito Estoril
• 10 June Misano World Circuit Marco Simoncelli
• 15 July Donnington Park Circuit

• 29 July Autodrom Most
• 9 September Circuit de Nevers Magny-Cours
• 23 September Catalunya Barcelona-Catalunya
• 7 October Algarve International Circuit
• 21 October Circuito San Juan Villicum
• 18 November Australia Phillip Island

2022 ASBK Calendar

• Round 1 Phillip Island Grand Prix Circuit, VIC 25 – 27 February
• Round 2 Queensland Raceway, Ipswich QLD 18 – 20 March
• Round 3 Wakefield Park Raceway, Goulburn NSW 22 – 24 April 
• Round 4 Hidden Valley Raceway, Darwin NT 17 – 19 June  * With Supercars – SBK Only   
• Round 5 Morgan Park Raceway, Warwick QLD 5 – 7 August 
• Round 6 Symmons Plains Raceway – Launceston TAS 20 – 23 October 
• Round 7 Phillip Island Grand Prix Circuit, Cowes VIC  – 18-20 November 
• Round 8 The Bend Motorsport Park, Tailem Bend SA 2 – 4 December 
• ASBK Night of Champions Dinner – The Bend 4 December  

2022 ProMX Calendar 

• March 27 Wonthaggi Motocross Track, VIC
• April 10 Mackay Motocross Track, QLD
• May 1 Albury-Wodonga Motocross Club, VIC
• May 29 Gilman Motocross, SA
• Jun 26 Maitland, NSW
• July 24 Coffs Harbour Showground, NSW
• August 14 Queensland Moto Park, QLD
• August 20-21 Coolum Pines MX Track, QLD

2022 MotoE Calendar 

• 30 April-01 May – Spain – Circuito de Jerez-Ángel Nieto – 2 races
• 14-15 May – France – Le Mans – 2 races
• 28-29 May – Italy – Autodromo Internazionale del Mugello – 2 races
• 25-26 June – Netherlands TT Circuit Assen – 2 races
• 9-10 – July – Finland KymiRing – 2 races
• 20-21 August – Austria Red Bull Ring – 2 races
• 03-04 September – San Marino e della Riviera di Rimini Misano World Circuit Marco Simoncelli – 2 races

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During 2009 I was trying to transform my R6 from a basically stock bike with worn out suspension, into a sharp handling, fast stopping track machine. The aim of the project was to get everything as cheap as possible and do most of the work myself to save money. I’m lucky that I am mechanically minded and have friends in the business that I can scrounge parts off. To be honest, I may have pushed the bounds of friendship with Jeff somewhat in my quest to get the job done but that was never a reason to give up and pay full retail!

Check out our other track bike articles here…

So what’s been done so far? Well the most important part for me was the suspension. To be blunt, it was shagged and ripped up back tyres like they were going out of fashion! Next on the list were the brakes. The standard ones are OK but for the track, more stopping power is nice. Thankfully, Hel supplied trick looking braided lines and I replaced the pads with EBC race items. Another problem with my R6 is the fact that tank slappers are all too common and a bit scary. With this in mind I raided Jeff’s shed and found a nearly new steering damper. Unfortunately, it had no fitting brackets so I had to manufacture some to get the damper working. I gave the bike a thorough service and check – a sensible move before risking my life at 250km/h. Next I fitted a race airfilter and replaced the battery. Lastly, I slapped on a bit of black paint and fitted some stickers. I took the bike to my mate Anton to fit some race rubber and that was just about it.

So I arrive at Eastern Creek all excited about the first ride on my shiny black track bike. As I head out on the track and tip the bike into turn two, I can feel the difference in the suspension immediately. The bike now feels so light and easy to steer as I flip-flop from turn two to three. Unfortunately, I can also tell instantly that I’ve dropped a bollock by fitting the race airfilter and not re-jetting the carbs. The R6 now has an obvious fuelling problem and must be getting too much air in the carburettors. So I get out the gaffer tape and try to restrict some of the airflow. This works a bit but the bike is still far from perfect and dozy-me had forgotten to bring along the standard filter!

Anyway, I decide to make the best of it and have some fun – and fun is what this bike is all about. Instead of being worried about dropping my road bike, for less than four grand, I thrashed the R6 around the track without a care in the world.

The brakes are now so powerful that I have to change my braking points. Allowing for later braking should speed me up but instead it just scares me more! I can’t get over how much better the bike handles. With the steering damper fitted, gone are the frightening shakes. As I return to the pits and jump off the bike, proof of the bike’s improved suspension is apparent when I check out the back tyre. Instead of being torn to bits, it’s now as smooth as a baby’s bum all the way to the edge.

So was all the work worth it? Hell yes! Even with the bike running rough I can still manage a reasonable lap. Once I get the fuelling right the bike will be a ripper. I’m not sure if my lap time will improve. I may just have to resign myself to the fact that I’ll always run around in the low 1:50s. However, one thing is for sure, I’ll certainly be less worn out at the end of the day after riding a bike that’s set-up correctly. 

All up the 1999 R6 has proven to be a great choice and with a bit of scrounging and begging I’ve only spent $1800 on it and $1000 of that was in the one area where I didn’t scrimp – suspension. 

Parts Used

• Hel brake lines, EBC HH pads
• Ex-race tyres, original chain and sprockets
• Home spray job
• Zenodamper shock
• Zenodamper forks
• Steering damper

Cost: $3500 plus $1800 in race set-up and parts

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As a qualified flag marshal and a race fan, Todd had always wanted to get out on the track himself so decided to build a track hack just for that purpose. Something that was affordable and would not break the bank too much if it was thrown down the road…

Check out our other track bike tests here…

After deciding on a big bore Japanese sportsbike, Todd began the search. After many weeks he eventually found this amazing Fireblade on eBay and better still, it turned out to be only 15km from his house. A call was made and a deal struck and later that night Todd had a crashed CBR929 in the shed. Well, in a mate’s shed anyway.

The bike was previously a track day bike and the owner parted company with the bike. It had extensive gravel rash and the tank was dented. It was also dirty and in need of a service and new tyres. A quick visit to eBay saw Todd score a set of Castrol race fairings that were delivered from China for $500. 

“I then filled the dent and had a local smash repair joint respray the tank white, then went over the bike with spanners and checked every nut and bolt, changed the oil and filter, and basically gave it a detail and tidy up”.

“I then got a red Pro Bolt kit from eBay and a screen from the UK. The only problem I encountered on the build was the fairing kit mounting holes were too small for the grommets. But all up I only spent about four weeks on the bike”.

Todd purchased every single part online, “There are some great bargains to be had,” says Todd, “Don’t be turned off by cosmetic damage just add a fairing kit to your budget and any other minor scratches won’t affect your lap times!”

New parts used on the bike include the fairing kit, Pro Bolt kit, screen, oil and filter plus tyres are on the way. Used parts were donor bar ends from the owner’s 2012 CBR, heel plates and a chain guard. 

“I couldn’t be happier. The entire bike cost less than a repair if I drop my new Blade. I spent just on $3000 and I took it to Western Sydney Dragway for a shakedown ride and ran 10.937@213km/h so that is great. Next up I want to change the gearing, fit new tyres and hit the track”.

The Build

• 2001 Honda CBR929RR Fireblade
• PURCHASE COST: $2000
• INITIAL BUDGET: $4000
• TOTAL SPENT: $3000
• PURCHASED FROM: eBay

Parts List

• $500 Hong Kong eBay special pre painted fairings
• Fresh oil, filter and brake fluid
• Detail and safety check
• New screen
• Engine bolt kit
  

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The post Track Bikes: Honda CBR929 Fireblade Budget Track Tool appeared first on Racing, Riding, Motorcycle Reviews, Race bikes, Tech Tips, Rider Training....

• Australian Senior Dirt Track Championship – hosted by North Brisbane Junior Motorcycle Club at Mick Doohan Raceway, QLD on April 30th – 1st of May.
• Australian Junior Dirt Track Championship – hosted by North Brisbane Junior Motorcycle Club at Mick Doohan Raceway taking place in QLD on 2nd – 3rd of July.
• Australian Junior Track Championship – hosted by Tamworth Motorcycle club will be held in Tamworth, NSW on the 20th – 21st of August.
• Australian Senior Track Championship – set for in Gunnedah, NSW Hosted by Gunnedah Motorcycle Club on the 24th – 25th of September.
• Australian Classic and Post Classic Dirt Track Championship – hosted by Temora Motorcycle Club will roll into Temora, NSW on 2nd – 3rd of October.

To stay up to date with the latest information and announcements visit the MA website www.ma.org.au. To see more 2021 racing calendar info, head here…

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MotoE Offical Test Dates 

• 07-08-09 March – Spain – Circuito de Jerez-Ángel Nieto – 3 days
• 11-12-13 April – Spain – Circuito de Jerez-Ángel Nieto – 3 days
  

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Offical 2022 MotoE Calendar 

• 30 April-01 May – Spain – Circuito de Jerez-Ángel Nieto – 2 races
• 14-15 May – France – Le Mans – 2 races
• 28-29 May – Italy – Autodromo Internazionale del Mugello – 2 races
• 25-26 June – Netherlands TT Circuit Assen – 2 races
• 9-10 – July – Finland KymiRing – 2 races
• 20-21 August – Austria Red Bull Ring – 2 races
• 03-04 September – San Marino e della Riviera di Rimini Misano World Circuit Marco Simoncelli – 2 races
  

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The post Provisional 2022 FIM Enel MotoE World Cup calendar appeared first on Racing, Riding, Motorcycle Reviews, Race bikes, Tech Tips, Rider Training....

If you have supplemented your road riding with some ride days, are running in the fast group and now find you spend most of your day at the local track being held up by slower traffic, then the logical progression is to have a go at racing. The good news is that if you own a late model sports bike or nakedbike, then you already have a great base from which to build a competitive racing motorcycle by carrying out some reasonably straightforward improvements.

This guide is designed to take you through the modifications required to convert your existing road bike into a race specification machine, and covers a range of performance levels to suit your budget and skill level.

The bike you start with is really going to determine how important engine modifications are to your lap times. If you are running a late model 1000cc bike and you’re starting out in racing, then you can’t fully utilise the 162bhp your stock bike has. 

If you are running a 600cc machine then more horsepower could definitely give you an advantage, especially in passing down the straights during a race, so your requirements may be different. I’m going to break this down into a number of stages, and if you’re inexperienced then I really recommend keeping engine mods to a minimum and spending your dollars on suspension setup, weight reduction and practice, as that is where you will find the biggest improvements.

Stage 1 – Bolt-ons
The obvious starting point for engine upgrades is to use off the shelf parts that do not require the engine to be rebuilt. As a start point a slip-on muffler ($250-$800) or Stainless Steel full race exhaust system ($1200-$2000), race airfilter ($80), plus a Power Commander and map from a reputable dyno room ($800-$1200), will get you around 170HP at the back wheel on a late model Japanese 1000 and a good clean torque curve right through your acceleration zone. This is really all you need to do to your engine until you are running top 15 in one of the major Australian Championship classes.

Stage 2 – Light internal mods
If pulling your engine out and taking the head off is not too scary for you, then a relatively simple and cheap mod is to install a thinner head gasket ($200), which will give a noticeable improvement in torque and throttle response, and brings your power up to around the 175HP mark. At this stage I’d also look to add a quickshifter ($350-$600), which not only improves acceleration but also allows you to “spend” valuable concentration in other areas.

Stage 3 – Getting serious
If a 200hp monster is what you really must have, then serious engine work is the only way to get there. This is going to require camshafts ($1200-$1800), a CNC ported head and multi angle valve job ($1500-$2000) plus possibly machining of the pistons, blueprinting and labour ($1500-$2500). Alternatively you can drop your motor off to someone like PTR Racing or Motologic and just ask them to build you an ASBK spec motor ($6,000-$8,000).

Suspension
This is an area where correct setup is critical to lap times no matter what type of machine you ride. If there is one area of bike preparation on which to focus, this is it. Poorly set up suspension will not only be the biggest barrier to improving your lap speed, it could also land you in hospital and see your pride and joy being carted home in a wheelbarrow.

Again there are a range of options here and buying the most expensive Ohlins WSBK kit is not necessarily the answer. Installation of the correct springs for your weight and an after market valve kit into your stock forks and shock ($800-$1200) by a reputable specialist such as Terry Hay’s Shock Treatment will make an enormous difference to lap times and allow you to find your limit more safely. You should also add an aftermarket steering damper ($250-$500) to keep those headshake issues under control as your new motor has the front wheel pawing at the sky. 

Next in line on the suspension upgrade list are race specification fork cartridges from Race Tech ($1200) or Ohlins ($1800), plus an aftermarket Shock ($1400-$2000), which will provide further improvement. If you want to get really serious then a set of SBK specification gas charged Ohlins or K-Tech front forks ($13,000-$16,000) will certainly make you the envy of all in pit lane, just don’t forget the factory technician to service and set them up.

Brakes
Most of the national classes in Australian racing are quite restrictive in terms of the modifications you can make to the braking system. Modern sports bikes do have extremely efficient brakes as standard, however they are set up more for road use than the repeated high load requirements found during a circuit race.

You can achieve significant improvements and a very good braking package by simply adding braided front brake lines from an aftermarket supplier such as HEL, Galfer or Goodridge ($80-$150) and some race specification pads ($50-$200). 

In choosing pads there are a huge amount of options out there. I personally use Performance Friction pads, and have found them to be excellent, however others have achieved equally good results with products from EBC, Brembo, SBS, the list goes on. 

Last but not least is some high performance brake fluid. What you are looking for here is a high wet boiling point. Castrol’s SRF ($160/L) is probably the most popular choice out there, but I have also had excellent results from Motul RBF 660($30/500ml). These three modifications will give a substantial increase in feel and braking power over the stock road setup, and most importantly they will dramatically reduce the amount of “fade” you experience towards the end of a race.

If the rules allow then an upgraded front master-cylinder should be next on your shopping list. Brembo offer an 18-20 x 19 RCS option ($400-$500), which allows adjustability between increased feel from the 18 ratio and a stronger bite using the 20 option. This is great if you are new to the race scene and aren’t yet sure what you prefer, and it’s not substantially more expensive than a non-adjustable aftermarket master-cylinder. The performance increase from a master-cylinder change will depend on how good your stock system was to begin with, however I did notice a substantial improvement on my GSX-R1000 from the Brembo MC.

If rules and budget are not restrictive, then it’s time to look at some aftermarket rotors and calipers. On the rear I normally just run a wave type rotor ($150-$250) to save approx 100g of rotating mass and leave everything else stock, as I rarely use the rear brake unless I’m off in a gravel trap! On the front you can look to a wave type setup from Galfer or Braking ($600-$800), however most of the front running teams are still using traditional circular rotors from Brembo ($800-$1500). 

For callipers Brembo have a range of options starting at their cast entry level items ($1000-$1500/set) and progressing up to their ultra trick race specification billet Monoblocs ($6000-$8000/set).

Bodywork
Replacing your stock bodywork with something more suitable for track use is highly recommended and due to the rules for most series stipulating a bellypan able to hold a certain amount of fluid, pretty much essential. Aftermarket fairings made from fibreglass ($800-$1200) or carbon-fibre ($2000-$3000) will save a substantial amount of weight from the heavy stock plastics and are also much easier and cheaper to repair if you happen to have an off. At this time I would also suggest picking up a slightly damaged tank from a wrecker if you can find one at a reasonable price ($350-$700), as replacing a stock tank is a very expensive exercise if you want to return your bike to road trim down the track.

Other items on the bodywork list include fibreglass/carbon-fibre air-intake ducts, tank cover, chain guard and rear hugger. All these items will be lighter in fibreglass or carbon-fibre and will also be cheaper than replacing damaged OEM components. While you are doing the bodywork consider moving to an aftermarket screen from Zero Gravity or Puig ($80-$150) and I would recommend a double bubble unit if the rules in your class allow. Again this will be cheaper than replacing an EOM item if it gets damaged and a double bubble design reduces buffeting immensely when you pop up to hit the brakes at the end of the straight.

Some fairing suppliers now offer to supply your race bodywork with the gel coat pre coloured to your requirements. The finish and tone may not be as good as quality paintwork, however it is a very cost effective way of having some colour on your bike and with the addition of a few stickers will still look fine from 10 metres away. If you want a full custom paint job then prices can vary widely ($500-$2000) depending on the complexity and quality you require. 

Weight Reduction
Weight is the enemy of just about everything that makes a motorcycle go fast around a racetrack. Acceleration, braking and cornering performance are all hugely effected by the overall weight of the bike and any reductions can have significant benefits in reducing lap times and also tyre wear. Depending on the rules in your class you may be quite limited in what you are allowed to change on the bike and may also have a minimum weight limit, however here are some things you can do if the rules allow. 

Probably the easiest and best bang for your buck weight reduction item available these days comes through replacing the stock lead acid battery with a much lighter and smaller Lithium-Ion unit ($200-$400). This will save multiple kilograms for the price of a few hundred dollars and let me tell you, the top WSBK teams are spending thousands to save a few grams by the time they get to the end of weight reduction programs.

Next on the list are lightweight aluminium alloy fasteners. You would be shocked to find out how many nuts and bolts there really are on a motorcycle and to say you could replace somewhere in the region of 150-200 steel bolts with aluminium would not be overstating it. Just don’t get too excited with this, structural bolts such as engine mounts, brake calliper mounts, triple clamp bolts, etc should all be left off the alloy replacement list. You do not want to have a brake calliper bolt shear through when you hit the anchors at over 280km/ph into turn one at SMSP! 

Still on fasteners you can spend hours knocking off the spare 3-5mm of thread on the end of structural steel bolts, and drilling out hollow bolts for items such as the subframe mounts to an extra 1mm oversize. I was once talking to the owner of a well known performance shop about this type of work and his attitude was, “Just go and have a piss before you race, it will save more weight than drilling out that bolt”.

“Well yes and I do but you can only have one piss and all these little things add up to make a big difference when you multiply it by 200.”

Speaking of sub-frames, alloy aftermarket race units are available for most sports bikes ($500-$800). Alternatively you could save quite a bit of weight here by reducing the amount of brackets in the stock item, and replacing the heavy plastic OEM undertray with fibreglass or carbon-fibre unit, although you may have to make this up yourself as I haven’t found suitable items to be readily available off the shelf.

If budget and class rules are not a problem then a set of lightweight aftermarket wheels are possibly the most significant weight reduction item you can add, due to the fact that any weight saved here is both unsprung (improved suspension action) and rotating (improved handling, acceleration and braking). Aftermarket aluminium rims are the most cost effective option ($1500-$2500/set) and should provide a small but noticeable improvement over OEM. For a more pronounced improvement Magnesium Alloy ($2500-$4000) or carbon-fibre ($4000-$5000) are the materials of choice for WSBK and GP teams and look just as trick as they perform.

Other Add-Ons
The majority of race series now require high strength engine case covers to be fitted, as modern OEM covers are very fragile, and also a shark fin rear sprocket guard to prevent “Daryl Beattie syndrome” (No toes). Damaging engine cases in a crash will almost definitely result in a serious amount of oil on the track, which is dangerous for other competitors and creates a lot of clean up work for the marshals. Kits are available from Vortex, GB Racing, Woodcraft, Yoshimura and others ($250-$500) and while you are at it get some rear stand swingarm bobbins ($40-$80).

To protect the expensive OEM items and allow increased adjustability, you should look to replace the standard handlebars with aftermarket clip-ons ($150-$250) and swap OEM footpegs with adjustable rearsets ($350-$800), from Vortex, Renthal, Woodcraft, Yoshimura, Sato or similar. I also prefer some grips with a little more bite and find the Renthal dual compounds to work very well ($25). 

While not essential a 520 chain conversion kit ($250-$400) will reduce power losses to the rear wheel and allow a wide choice of gearing options, as this is the most popular pitch for racing world wide. A lot of national series run a control tyre at the moment, which means you don’t have to worry about making a choice and prices average around $550 per set. 

If you do not need to run a control tyre, then some brands can be picked up for around $480/set fitted and you would expect to go through a minimum of two sets per race weekend. Also keep in mind that you will need spare tyres in reasonable condition for practice days, so it’s advisable not to race them until they are completely finished. The last thing you want to do is be trying to race on completely shot tyres, then shell out for a brand new set just for practice. It’s far better to partially use one extra set of tyres on race day and leave yourself with enough rubber for your next practice session.

Lockwiring
Finally on the bike preparation front, all race bikes are required as a minimum to have the following items lockwired – oil filler cap, oil filter, sump plug, radiator cap and front brake calliper bolts. I like to use a hose clamp around the oil filter, and “R” clips through the caps and calliper bolts, this allows easy removal without having to rewire everything each time.

Check out how to lockwire your bike here…

Riding Gear
Before you get out on track you are going to need some decent protective clothing. The price of leathers has come down significantly in the last decade and reasonable quality kit is now available for a much more affordable price ($500-$800). If you want something with a bit more style and comfort then you can upgrade to some premium brand Leathers from Dainese, Alpinestar, Spidi, or similar ($1200-$1800). For those who are a bit different in body shape or just want a custom design or perfect fit, made to measure leathers are produced locally by specialists such as Ricondi, Trinity Racewear, Quin Leathers or Tiger Angel ($1500-$2500).

A back protector ($100-$350), gloves ($100-$400) and boots ($250-$600) are all mandatory and you should always shell out on the best kit you can afford in this area. Trying on a range of brands and styles is a good idea, as they all have a slightly different fit and some will suit your individual body shape better than others.

The last and most important item is a quality helmet. If you’ve been around motorcycles for a while, then you’ve no doubt heard the phrase, “If you’ve got a $10 head, wear a $10 helmet”. Surgeons are pretty skilled these days and can repair most things you are likely to break in an accident, however your brain is not on that list. Spend some dollars and protect it. In my personal opinion, if you can’t afford a $500 helmet as a minimum, then you can’t afford to go racing. Cheaper lids do pass all the safety criteria, or you wouldn’t be allowed to buy them, however they tend to be heavier, which increases the whip force when your head smashes into something solid (like bitumen).

Top range helmets, think Shoei, Arai, AGV ($600-$1200) are lighter, more comfortable, afford a better field of vision and have had the R&D dollars spent to ensure the best possible fit and protection.

Equipment
Additional equipment you will require to go racing includes a trailer or van to get the bike to and from the track, and what you choose here will generally reflect what you can afford and also what suits your requirements away from racing. I use a box trailer ($800-$1400) with a runner and tie down points, and chose this option as it does double duty for garbage and mulch shifting purposes. A fully enclosed trailer ($3000-$6000) would be ideal if you want everything locked up and protected and also allows you to leave tools and parts stored in the trailer at home rather than having to unpack after every meeting.

Check out our transportation tips here…

Front and rear stands are mandatory ($250-$450/set) and I’d recommend going with a head lifting style front stand, which allows easy removal of the front forks for suspension adjustment.

Tyre warmers ($250-$800) are really an essential item these days. Modern race tyres are designed to run only one to three heat cycles, so you need to get them warm, and keep them warm all day to reduce the negative effects. They are also intended to run off tyre warmers and will cold tear badly if you try to ride without heat in them. Trust me, your reduced tyre bill will pay for the warmers after only a couple of race weekends and going out on pre-heated rubber will also dramatically reduce the chances of a first lap crash.

Other desirable equipment includes a decent tool kit, crash spares including clip-ons and footpegs as a minimum and preferably spare fairings and screen, brake levers, throttle tube and grips. Also include cable ties, lock wire, duct tape, spare knee and toe sliders, tinted and clear visors, ear plugs, alternative sprockets, spare rims with wets, chairs and table, extension leads and power boards, Loctite and a selection of nuts bolts and washers.

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Road Racing State Governing Bodies

MOTORCYCLING NEW SOUTH WALES 

• Address: 9 Parkes Street,
• Harris Park NSW 2150
• Phone: (02) 9635 9177
• Web: motorcycling.com.au
  

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MOTORCYCLING QUEENSLAND

• Address: 2/8 Gordon Street,
• Ipswich Qld 4305
• Phone: (07) 3281 2255
• Web: mqld.org.au

MOTORCYCLING WESTERN AUSTRALIA

• • Address: 46 Seventh Avenue,
  • Marylands WA 6051
  • Phone: (08) 9371 5333
  • Web: motorcyclingwa.org.au

MOTORCYCLING SOUTH AUSTRALIA

• Address: 251 The Parade,
• Beulah Park SA 5067
• Phone: (08) 8332 9000
• Web: motorcyclingsa.org.au

MOTORCYCLING VICTORIA

• Address: Suite 125/9 Hall Street
• Port Melbourne, Vic 3207
• Phone: (03) 9673 0600
• Web: motorcyclingvic.com.au

MOTORCYCLING TASMANIA

• Postal Address: PO Box 269,
• Port Sorell Tas 7307
• Phone: (03) 6428 7567
• Web: mtas.org.au

MOTORCYCLING NORTHERN TERRITORY

• Postal Address: PO Box 154,
• Howard Springs NT 0835
• Phone: (08) 8983 2200
• Web: mant.org.au
  

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RIDE DAY COMPANY CONTACTS 

CALIFORNIA SUPERBIKE SCHOOL

• Ph: 1300 793 423
• phillipislandridedays.com.au
• superbikeschool.com.au
• Locations: Phillip Island, Vic

CHAMPION’S RIDE DAYS 

• Ph: (07) 3287 4144
• championsridedays.com.au
• Locations: Broadford, Winton, Queensland Raceway, Barbagallo, Lakeside, Mallala 

TOP RIDER  

• Ph: 1300 13 13 62
• toprider.com.au
• Locations: Marulan, Eastern Creek, Gold Coast

TRAKDAYZ 

• Ph: 0401 484 898
• trakdayz.com.au
• Locations: Barbagallo, Collie

XTREME RIDE DAYS

• Ph: (02) 4823 5711
• formula-xtreme.com.au/RideDay
• Locations: Wakefield Park, NSW

RIDE DAYS WA 

• Ph: (08) 9409 1002
• ridedayswa.com.au
• Locations: Barbagello, Collie

The post All The Australian Racing & Track Day Contacts You’ll Need! appeared first on Racing, Riding, Motorcycle Reviews, Race bikes, Tech Tips, Rider Training....

You really need to have a good front end feeling and good confidence and feel in the front tyre. This will come only from testing your limits on the braking markers in practice and seeing how late you can actually brake without running off the track. This also will give you a good idea of how your front reacts when you grab the brakes a little harder and a little later. For example if the front dives too hard and fast it will pick the rear up meaning you will have to release the brakes a little to get the rear contact back or the rear will go sideways and try to overtake the front.

Check out our other rider training articles here…

If you have ridden around on your own all the way through practice and maybe cutting fast laps all the time it can be easy to find yourself in trouble in the race when you suddenly have to take a different line into a corner and brake in a different way when you need to overtake. This is why I always tried to run a few hard laps with someone fast and make sure I had made a few passes on the brakes during practice just so I knew how the bike would be and if we were set up properly to race.

In early 2005 when I was on the new R1 with the Yamaha Italia World Superbike and we were trying to find our base setup and get the right slipper clutch setting overtaking wasn’t really an option. I could get fast laps done in qualifying but I just didn’t have the confidence or feel from the front end to lunge up the inside of someone and confidently know I would pull it off and come out the other side of the corner.

I think for the first three or four rounds of the championship that year I didn’t make any passes on the brakes/front end on any of the faster guys I was racing with. Whereas later in the year and particularly the next year 2006 I could pass anyone on the brakes. 

When you have that confidence and you are trying to get past someone who also has their bike working well and is braking really late it will take a bit more planning. Sometimes an overtaking move can take a combination of any number of corners to pass someone or even numerous laps to set someone up finally for a decisive pass. If you have identified a corner where you think you can make a pass it may require the perfect exit from a corner five turns before and gathering momentum through every section just to get up alongside someone so that you can get past them.

Even then you both might grab the brakes, at the same time, both on the limit, each rider easing the brakes on and off to stay ahead all the way to the apex when the guy on the outside has to give way because you have taken his line. Then if you have pulled it off try and pull a gap straight away because most people will try to come straight back past. 

If someone had a little more pace than me but I could hang onto them and even pass them but not get away I would continually pass and re-pass to upset their rhythm and hopefully after lots of that I would have a little more tyre left at the end when things got tougher.

Another type of pass is a sort of momentum pass that starts with a good exit out of a turn and gathering that momentum through a series of faster turns and as you are flicking from one side to another under power running it up the inside. I liked to try a pass on the change of direction into the hayshed at Phillip Island.

This started though on the exit of Honda and then gaining a little more and getting a little closer on the run into Siberia and picking up the throttle at worst the same time as the rider in front getting your face right into their exhausts up through the left kink and over the bump and while they are keeping it left for the run through the Hayshed you are almost grazing their ducktail with your left shoulder and going straight to the apex and up the inside. The only trick there is making sure you are not out on the grass on the exit and approaching Lukey Heights on the green stuff.

Of course the other way to overtake is on the straight but the real key to that is having horsepower. It can be done with an amazing exit out of say Turn 12 at Phillip Island and catching a slipstream all the way down the straight and popping out as you start to run downhill after the bridge into Turn one.

People will also try the desperate moves that they have no idea if they can pull them off but have a go anyway which sometimes you just have to do. Anyway, if you are racing motorbikes or anything for that matter overtaking is always going to be part of it and the more often you do it the easier it is but you can be sure of one thing there is always going to be someone you want to overtake.

Executing a good passing manoeuvre takes skill and experience… Words: Andrew Pitt. 

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The pictures always showed how much sand there was everywhere at Barbagallo and that the bikes stayed upright in the sand when they ran off the track, even when the riders were no longer on board! My first experience over there was in 1994 for the round of the Shell Oils Australian Road Race Championships.

The only viable option expenses-wise was for a whole group of riders to get together and crate all the bikes up in a pantec truck and get someone to drive them over and back via Mallala for their round of the Championship.

Chris Taylor’s Dad, Alf, was the driver so he didn’t have to pay as driving was considered a pretty good contribution. A certain Troy Bayliss had his ZZR600 in the truck, too! This allowed the rest of us to fly over and see our bikes again at the racetrack. Everyone seemed to be on the same Qantas flight over from Sydney with all the factory Superbike riders of the day stationed up the back of the plane conducting the party.

We were staying at the Wanneroo Tavern with Phil Harper and his dad Bob and the Buckmasters – Malcolm and Damon. Phil knew the Buckmasters pretty well from the NSW Central Coast and they had advised us to stay there as it was pretty close to the track but could get a little noisy and rowdy on Thursday, Friday and Saturday night. 

That didn’t worry Malcolm though because he would just get up and go and sort them out. As a 17 year old I hadn’t had many nights out or seen too many things out of the ordinary such as topless waitresses on Thursday nights around the pool tables and a pub rocking all night, but the Wanneroo Tavern gave me all of those things. 

After dinner in the bistro on Thursday night, the old boys decided they needed a beer or two so we riders accompanied them in for a squash before official practice started the next day only to be greeted by naked ladies everywhere. Needless to say we probably drank all the squash in the joint before getting off to bed to get some sleep.

Check out our other track guides here…

The Saturday topped it all though when the general pub noise was getting louder and louder and I was sleeping like a log until woken yelling just outside our window. Dad was awake so we got up to see what was going on. 

Phil and Bob were up too with their door open and Malcolm was definitely up. Apparently one of the drunks had wandered over, obviously lost and had tried to get into their room through the window and Malcolm had come straight out ready to have this bloke. Upon seeing big Malcolm, the bloke shit himself. Realising he had made a big mistake on his room choice, he skipped up onto a car and then onto the motel roof to get away from Malcolm. 

What we had heard was Malcolm telling this bloke to get down and accept his punishment and the bloke pleading with Malcolm to be let go in one piece. A good old-fashioned stalemate was what we had but it all ended peacefully and became a good story to tell about the Wanneroo Tavern. 

The track surface was very abrasive but also very grippy especially in the wet which I suppose it had to be considering when the wind came up the sand blew onto the track. The track goes clockwise so right, right, right most of the time, which I liked.

As the years went on, dad and I did it together in a Hiace bus that went over on the train and we drove it back across the Nullarbor picking up Craig McMartin’s trailer after their vehicle had broken down in a race to get to Mallala for the next round. Needless to say the fuel economy went out the window towing the trailer across the desert coupled with the fuel prices out there. The year after, Peter Doyle agreed to throw our private ZX-6R in their truck and dad and I managed to get two third places against all the factory teams and that weekend probably got me started with Doyley and crew. At the very next round, the latest model I had been waiting for was ready and prepared by TKA and it led to second in the championship that year behind Damon Buckmaster.

The pit facilities were always good with competitors side by side in the carports in the early days, to the more upmarket lockable sheds that were generally privately owned and made available for the bigger teams over the weekend.

The Supersport bike was all about corner speed and maintaining momentum while the Superbike was all about getting it up and managing the wheel spin and hence tyre life. I have to say though, the Superbike was by far the most fun around there especially getting out of the bowl out the back.

The accommodation changed from the Wanneroo Tavern to Hillary’s Boat Harbour as things got better but it was always the round that everyone looked forward to all year – from the welcoming club and fans over there to the Sunday night parties in the clubhouse at the track. There was always the core group of workers headed by Denise that put on a great weekend and made everyone welcome and nothing had changed when I went back in 2009 for the Kings of Wanneroo.

“Thankfully an Australian Championship round has returned there because it was simply criminal they lost it and it’s not a real Australian Championship without going to Wanneroo.”

I told you I would finish the story of the rental car going around the adjacent motocross track so here are a few more details. Now I won’t mention any names and it was a few years before my time so maybe it’s just myth but as I said a rental car was rumoured to be taken around the motocross track and by the end it would only go in fifth gear and reverse. To make matters worse, it was bent through the middle and the doors wouldn’t open so when it was finally returned to the airport all occupants had to get out through the windows.

Summing up Wanneroo there is no doubt it always provides great racing and passionate spectators but by week’s end there will always be a few new stories to tell.

TURN ONE
It has a pretty short front straight and depending on gearing, fifth gear was about as high as you would ever get (and sometimes only fourth). Normally you’re grabbing the brakes well past the end of the pit wall (around the pit lane exit), going back to third and running in really fast. It wasn’t a key overtaking spot but it could be done, you had to block the other rider a little, stopping yourself and trying to prevent running those couple of bike lengths wide allowing your competitor straight back past you on the inside. 

Third gear seemed generally a little tall on the entry but it made you keep it rolling around the long right to keep the corner speed up for the exit which ended up being a quick run up to the uphill left. Getting it up onto the fatter part of the tyre was important on the exit because it was very easy to lose that jump off the turn while it was spinning

TURN TWO & THREE
These two weren’t really turns for me just flicks left and right as quick as possible before getting into the fast uphill Turn Four. Although, through the right flick you had to be very careful not to touch the inside kerb with the engine case and then not touch the drain on the inside of the entry to Turn Four.

TURN FOUR
Was the only real left hand turn on the track but it was long and allowed you to easily get the tyres scrubbed and enough heat into them. It was third gear on all bikes and was uphill so I always found myself running in really fast but still thinking maybe I could have pushed a little more going in. Once the bike was settled it was straight back on the gas to keep the speed building. It was critical to keep it tight all the way around the uphill left but circuit knowledge was also critical because you couldn’t see the next right! 

Until you knew exactly when to flick it right you were guessing, which meant sometimes doing it too early and heading for the inside kerb and sometimes too late and getting out into the sand on the exit. During that flick to the right there was also a gear change up to fourth and then another one to fifth at the crest of the hill as you were touching the outside kerb on the exit to keep the front wheel down before heading down into the bowl.

TURN SIX
This is still one of my all-time favourite corners because of how much fun you can have on the exit with wheel spinning and tyre smoking, especially on a bike with some horsepower. It was downhill braking, back to third and also a really good overtaking opportunity if you had gotten over the top of the hill before well. It was a matter of getting it in there and hitting your apex, getting it pointed in the right direction and then start opening the throttle and let the fun begin. It really was dirt-tracking skills at their best. The exit just opened up and there was so much room heading back up the hill with the tyre spinning while you were grabbing gears. All the talk at the end of the races between riders was how much smoke was coming off your tyre and how much smoke we were riding through.

TURN SEVEN
This was the last overtaking chance and probably where all the races were settled. I won battles there but also lost a few, too. Getting the bike over the hill in top gear without flipping it was the first issue, well before the braking duels started but once you touched down it was about going in as deep as possible. The middle part of the braking zone starts going uphill after the steep downhill run and this was the first time I have ever felt front forks bottoming-out under brakes.

After sneaking up the inside of someone you had to hold your line or they would be back up the inside on the exit and beat you to the line while you were trying to stay off the big high kerb on the exit. That kerb is also where it can all come unstuck trying to jump it, or if you get the rear over the crown, it lets go really quick (as happened to Crusty one year). The key was to just use the inside part of it as a bit of a berm. This was where all the spectators were and generally there was plenty for the marshals to clean up in the sand after some of the moves didn’t stick.

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